Of course every hotel in Pera has its restaurant.
That of the Pera Palace is the one which the travelling
Englishman gravitates to naturally, and
it is the best of its kind. I do not
think it would be considered first-rate in any capital
except that of Turkey.
Of the restaurants of Pera, apart from the hotels,
Tokatlian’s is the best. This big restaurant is built
Tokatlian’s, in the shape of a cross, and glass screens
Grande Rue keep the draughts of air away from the
customers. The prevailing colour of pillars and walls
is cream colour. The rooms are lofty, and a flight
of stairs leads to a suite of rooms on the first floor.
The part of the restaurant nearest the entrance serves
as a cafe. Tokatlian’s at first sight reminded me
somewhat of our London Gatti’s. In the evening
Tokatlian’s is crowded, and quite a number of the
‘ Turkey 361
men wear fezzes. This does not necessarily mean
that they are Turks, for many Greeks and other
Christians whose business takes them amongst the
Turks wear the fez as attracting less attention in
Stamboul than a “ pot hat ” does. The managers of
the restaurants wear the frock-coat of ordinary civili-
sation ; the waiters wear aprons. There are always
some Eastern as well as French dishes on the bill of
fare, and a pilaf and a mousaka at Tokatlian’s give a
very fair idea of what a well-to-do Turk eats. My
neighbours on the last occasion I dined at Tokatlian’s
were two Greek ladies at a table on one side and a
German merchant and three young men in fezzes on
the other. Grilled trout, roast partridges, and great
slices of water melon formed the dinner of the men’s
party ; the ladies ate cakes and sweets. Little chunks
of a big Espadon fish, rather oily and fried in a cover-
ing of bay leaves, were the Eastern delicacies of my
repast, which otherwise, except for the Cafe Turc,
was a French dinner. Most of the diners at
Tokatlian’s drink the beer of the country, which is
very light, and is brought to table cellar-cold.
Janni’s, also in the Grande Rue, but at the opposite
end to Tokatlian’s, is a very cosmopolitan restau-
rant, and its cartes de jour are made janni’s,
out in Turkish, Greek, Armenian, and Grande Rue
French. It consists of several rooms screened off by
coloured glass divisions. Pilafs and other Turkish
dishes are to be found on the bill of fare, and an
attempt is made to cater for the tastes of all the
nations. Janni’s keeps open at night so long as any
customers remain there.
Toughourt , curdled milk, is a favourite dish with
the Turks, and Europeans take very Laiterie de Pera
kindly to it. It can be got at the Grande Rue
Laiterie de Pera, in the Grande Rue, and can be
eaten in the shop.
362 ^The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
Page 194
Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Of course every hotel in Pera has its restaurant. That of the Pera Palace is the one which the travelling Englishman gravitates to naturally, and it is the best of its kind. I do not think it would be considered first-rate in any capital except that of Turkey.
Of the restaurants of Pera, apart from the hotels, Tokatlian’s is the best. This big restaurant is built Tokatlian’s, in the shape of a cross, and glass screens Grande Rue keep the draughts of air away from the customers. The prevailing colour of pillars and walls is cream colour. The rooms are lofty, and a flight of stairs leads to a suite of rooms on the first floor. The part of the restaurant nearest the entrance serves as a cafe. Tokatlian’s at first sight reminded me somewhat of our London Gatti’s. In the evening Tokatlian’s is crowded, and quite a number of the
‘ Turkey 361
men wear fezzes. This does not necessarily mean that they are Turks, for many Greeks and other Christians whose business takes them amongst the Turks wear the fez as attracting less attention in Stamboul than a “ pot hat ” does. The managers of the restaurants wear the frock-coat of ordinary civilisation ; the waiters wear aprons. There are always some Eastern as well as French dishes on the bill of fare, and a pilaf and a mousaka at Tokatlian’s give a very fair idea of what a well-to-do Turk eats. My neighbours on the last occasion I dined at Tokatlian’s were two Greek ladies at a table on one side and a German merchant and three young men in fezzes on the other. Grilled trout, roast partridges, and great slices of water melon formed the dinner of the men’s party ; the ladies ate cakes and sweets. Little chunks of a big Espadon fish, rather oily and fried in a covering of bay leaves, were the Eastern delicacies of my repast, which otherwise, except for the Cafe Turc, was a French dinner. Most of the diners at Tokatlian’s drink the beer of the country, which is very light, and is brought to table cellar-cold.
Janni’s, also in the Grande Rue, but at the opposite end to Tokatlian’s, is a very cosmopolitan restaurant, and its cartes de jour are made janni’s, out in Turkish, Greek, Armenian, and Grande Rue French. It consists of several rooms screened off by coloured glass divisions. Pilafs and other Turkish dishes are to be found on the bill of fare, and an attempt is made to cater for the tastes of all the nations. Janni’s keeps open at night so long as any customers remain there.
Toughourt, curdled milk, is a favourite dish with the Turks, and Europeans take very kindly to it. It can be got at the Laiterie de Pera, in the Grande Rue, and can be eaten in the shop.
362 ^The Gourmet's Guide to Europe