FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 189

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
plate of exceptionally fine ' fruit to show to his favourite customers. The prices at Capsa’s are the prices of a good Parisian restaurant. One lunch at the restaurant, the bill for which was the equivalent for 17 francs 50 centimes, consisted of hors d' oeuvre, a grilled sterlet, Sarmale , Cepes Proven^ales , cheese, a half-bottle of Dragasami (which wine has the flavour of muscatel grapes), a half-bottle of Mattoni water, coffee, and a liqueur glass of fine-champagne, which last, at 3 francs, was the most expensive item in the bill. This is a typical dinner which I ate at Capsa’s : — Caviar. Ciorba de Poulet. Turbot a la Grec. Mousaka aux Courges. Gateaux. And this a breakfast : — Glachi de Carpe (froid). CEufs Polenta. Pilau. Aubergines aux Tomates. The Roumanian dishes which are specialties at Capsa’s are these : — Soups — Ciorba de Pui ; Ciorba de Ga/usti ; Ciorba de Burta. Fish — Sterlet a la Dobroutscha. Other Dishes — Dovlecei umpluti cu smantana ; Perisoare cu aurd ; Sarmale de V arza ; Chiveciu National ; Rata cu castraveti acri ; Curcan pe V arza ; Tocana de Muschiu cu marrialiguta. Capsa’s list of the Roumanian wines may safely be taken as a guide to what is best of the country vintages. Dragasani, Odobesti, Cotnar, Tamaiosa are the white wines, some of which are of vintages as distant in date as 1879 ; and the red wines are Nicoresti, Odobesti, and Dealu mare. A bottle of Roumania 349 champagne of G. H. Mumm’s “ Cordon Rouge ” of no guaranteed year costs 22 francs, and a bottle of Allsopp’s Pale Ale costs 5 francs 50 centimes. At Capsa’s all the waiters have a knowledge of French, and that language is generally talked by the habitues of the restaurant, for a Roumanian of the upper classes is always proud of speaking French with Parisian fluency and accent. There are many purely Roumanian restaurants in Bucarest. The only one as to which I have personal experience is that of Dimitrescu at the Dmritrescu end of the Strada Acadamiei, opposite strada the side face of the Hotel Continental. Acadamiei Some of the waiters at this restaurant have a smat- tering of German as well as their own language. The restaurant has green walls, and attached to it is a garden where, under a large canvas awning, the tables are set on hot nights. I found the menu a puzzle, for not only is it written in Roumanian, but hot entrees, fish, and gros pieces are all in the same column. I ordered Shinbere , Teya Rise /, and appealed to the head waiter to order for me, as my third dish, some typical Roumanian plat. What my dinner proved to be was a good thick tripe soup, cold fish with a mayonnaise sauce, and roast chicken cut up and served on a pile of white pickled cabbage. Across the little garden behind the Hotel Con- tinental is the restaurant of the hotel, a rather solemn but comfortable place wherein Hotel Con- to dine. A table d'hote dinner is served, tinental, the dishes all being of the French Tiieatre Square cuisine, though cold sterlet, little Roumanian sausages, and other dishes of the country are on the table for cold meats. The restaurant of the Hotel Boulevard, the most modern hotel of the town, is also a dining- place at which a dinner above the average of the Near East in the matter of cookery is to be obtained-. 350 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe Of cafes and pastry-cooks and cafe-chantants there Jonescu, are a great number in the town and