I have not been in Innsbruck recently enough to write with any confidence of the qualities of the restaurants there, but I noted when I was there last that Kraft’s in Museumstrasse and Grabhofer’s in Erlenstrasse were cafe-restaurants worth notice. To Meran I have never been, but I am told that it resembles the other watering-places in that the best material and best service is found in the restaurants of the best hotels. At Bad Gastein I have lunched with content at the old-fashioned Badeschloss, and have dined well at the newer Kaiserhof. At Prague my experience has been that the restaurants of the zAu stria '339 two rival hotels, the Saxe and the Blue Star, are the two best to dine at, but my gastronomic experi- ences in three days at Prague were not encouraging. At Riva on the Lago di Garda there are two big hotels, the cookery at either of which being clean and Austrian comes as a change after the richness of the Italian school. Abazzia, the Nice of the Austrian Riviera, has not yet achieved the full cele- brity which is sure to come to it. The restaurant of the Stephanie has an excellent cook, but is by no means cheap. XIII HUNGARY The Cookery of the Country — Buda-Pesth — Buda-Pesth Clubs — Other Towns. The Cookery of the Country Paprika is the new element which comes into play in most Hungarian dishes. Perhaps the best known of all the dishes of Hungary is the Gulyas , or as the French call it, thp Goulache , which is a comparatively dry dish of beef, dusted with paprika, as one eats it in Buda- Pesth and which as one travels westward becomes more and more like a ragout seasoned with the Hun- garian pepper. Paprikahuhn is a fowl dusted with the pepper and baked or stewed. Paprika Carp is excellent. Ungarisches Rebhulin is a form of pickled veal. Hun- garian wines are well known in England and America — Erlauer, Ofner, Carlowitz, Goldeck, Riesling, Leanka, Ruster, Schomlayer, Szegszarder, being often imported. Kristaly and Isle de Ste. Marguerite are Hungarian mineral drinking waters. Biere de Ko- banya is one of the many light beers of the country. Buda-Pesth One of the customs of Buda-Pesth is that the two great clubs of the city — the National Casino, which is 340 Hungary 341 the Club of the Nobles, and the Club of the Gentry — allow their cooks, who are always Frenchmen, or at least professors of the Cuisine Fran^aise, to own and manage restaurants on the ground floor of the club buildings. The National Casino Restaurant I found a quiet, high, white room, not overcrowded with tables. The maitre cT hotel talks excellent French, National Casino, the dishes on the carte de jour are all Kossuthgasse French, the people dining were mostly celebrities. On one occasion the Hungarian Minister of War, his wife and aide-de-camp, were supping at one table, while at another was the Minister of Education enter- taining some friends. It has all the appearance and the tone of a good Parisian restaurant.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

I have not been in Innsbruck recently enough to write with any confidence of the qualities of the restaurants there, but I noted when I was there last that Kraft’s in Museumstrasse and Grabhofer’s in Erlenstrasse were cafe-restaurants worth notice. To Meran I have never been, but I am told that it resembles the other watering-places in that the best material and best service is found in the restaurants of the best hotels. At Bad Gastein I have lunched with content at the old-fashioned Badeschloss, and have dined well at the newer Kaiserhof. At Prague my experience has been that the restaurants of the Austria 339 two rival hotels, the Saxe and the Blue Star, are the two best to dine at, but my gastronomic experiences in three days at Prague were not encouraging. At Riva on the Lago di Garda there are two big hotels, the cookery at either of which being clean and Austrian comes as a change after the richness of the Italian school. Abazzia, the Nice of the Austrian Riviera, has not yet achieved the full celebrity which is sure to come to it. The restaurant of the Stephanie has an excellent cook, but is by no means cheap. HUNGARY The Cookery of the Country — Buda-Pesth — Buda-Pesth Clubs — Other Towns. The Cookery of the Country Paprika is the new element which comes into play in most Hungarian dishes. Perhaps the best known of all the dishes of Hungary is the Gulyas , or as the French call it, the Goulache , which is a comparatively dry dish of beef, dusted with paprika, as one eats it in Buda- Pesth and which as one travels westward becomes more and more like a ragout seasoned with the Hungarian pepper. Paprikahuhn is a fowl dusted with the pepper and baked or stewed. Paprika Carp is excellent. Ungarisches Rebhulin is a form of pickled veal. Hungarian wines are well known in England and America — Erlauer, Ofner, Carlowitz, Goldeck, Riesling, Leanka, Ruster, Schomlayer, Szegszarder, being often imported. Kristaly and Isle de Ste. Marguerite are Hungarian mineral drinking waters. Biere de Kobanya is one of the many light beers of the country. Buda-Pesth One of the customs of Buda-Pesth is that the two great clubs of the city — the National Casino, which is Hungary 341 the Club of the Nobles, and the Club of the Gentry — allow their cooks, who are always Frenchmen, or at least professors of the Cuisine Française, to own and manage restaurants on the ground floor of the club buildings. The National Casino Restaurant I found a quiet, high, white room, not overcrowded with tables. The maitre cT hotel talks excellent French, National Casino, the dishes on the carte de jour are all Kossuthgasse French, the people dining were mostly celebrities. On one occasion the Hungarian Minister of War, his wife and aide-de-camp, were supping at one table, while at another was the Minister of Education entertaining some friends. It has all the appearance and the tone of a good Parisian restaurant.

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