FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 181

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
a very large amount of ground, and he has as well many houses which are dependances of the hotel. The cafe and restaurant accommodate pupp’s, many hundreds of people. There is Alte wiese a grove of little horse chestnut trees where red-clothed tables are set, and where simple food and tea and coffee and beer and ices are served by little waitresses in black. A glass shelter borders one side of this grove, and there is a large bandstand where one of the many bands there are in Carlsbad plays in the afternoon and evening. A narrow road divides the grove from another space, a three-cornered one in the open air, where the tables are white-clothed and where the waitresses and waiters divide the duties. On one side of this space is a vast hall used as a cafe and concert-room when the weather is cold and wet, and on the other is the restaurant. The restaurant is built in three steps. First on the ground level are tables sheltered by big white sunshades decorated with a pattern of chestnut bloom and leaves, then comes a terrace sheltered by a canopy upheld by big spears, and then inside the building are two rooms, the further one at a higher level than the near one. The windows are taken out in hot weather and leave frames of crimson and gold, the decorations are gorgeous, and there is an abundance of gas and electric lights. Pupp’s on a warm summer’s night at supper- time, when the Cur-kapelle finds the music, is a very fine sight. The food is invariably good and well-cooked at Pupp’s, but the waiters on crowded nights seem to have more clients on their hands than they can attend to satisfactorily. My pet restaurant at Carlsbad is Weishaupt’s in the Alte Wiese. I have watched its rise to fame. The first time that I went to Carlsbad weishaupt’s, Herr Weishaupt had a shop where ham Alte Wiese and other delicatessen were sold, and on the other side 332 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe of the entrance passage was a little dining-room. I was told that whatever was of the best in the market of a morning was. secured by Weishaupt for his clients, and I found that no plumper partridges, no fresher trout, were to be found anywhere. Now Herr Weishaupt has three rooms, all decorated in excellent taste, in his restaurant, and its front is of brown marble. He himself is u hoflieferant,” and wears the best-fitting frock-coat in Carlsbad, and all vestiges of the ham shop have vanished. The restau- rant is of a manageable size, the head waiters do not rush about, the waiting is done without noise, and there is no overcrowding of tables. The partridges are as plump and the trout are as fresh as of yore, and the cook of the establishment is an artist. W eishaupt’s now has its Specialties de la Maison , of some of which I partake on the day before I begin a “ cure ” and on the day I . finish one before I go to the station. They are Madrilene en Tasse , CEufs Gourmand , Filets de soles Gambon , Poulet saute Catalane , Souffle Mocca. On warm days Weishaupt’s puts tables under the trees on the other side of the Alte Wiese, and sitting of an evening at one of these tables, one sees all the world of Carlsbad taking its after-supper walk come past. At the Savoy, which stands high up in that part of Carlsbad which is named the West End, the great The Savoy, lights of Anglo-Saxon society generally West End take their meals. The Americans have