FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 173

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The Kursaal on the northern side of the lake has a restaurant on its broad illuminated terrace. The Kursaal contains the Variety Theatre Kursaal of Geneva, but the restaurant with its Restaurant American bar, and the Cercle des Etrangers, is divided off from the rest of the establishment, and has a sepa- rate entrance. It is wise to find out who is the res- taurateur who is in charge of the Kursaal Restaurant. I have known it to be at a low ebb as a dining-place, but when last I was in Geneva I found it in high favour with the best class of visitors to the town, for Negresco had come from the Casino Municipal at Nice to take charge during the summer of the Kursaal Restaurant, and had brought his head cooks and his maitres d'hotel with him. There are two summer restaurants in the public gardens of Geneva, one in the Jardin Anglais, and the other in the Jardin des Bastions, the park opposite the theatre. At both a cheap table d'hote meal is served at midday. I have never lunched at the Jardin Anglais kiosk, but I have been much amused by the company, consisting largely of students, who eat their midday meal in summer at the glass house in the Jardin des 3 1 6 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe Bastions. Two francs is the price of the midday meal at this restaurant, and it serves a supper at fr. 2.50, commencing at six o’clock. The Casino in the Eaux Vives Park, a short drive or tramway journey out of Geneva, is a little grey Casino, chateau with a slate roof, round which Eaux Vives has been constructed a broad wooden terrace, which in summer is illuminated with many little lamps, and is used’ as a dining place. The view from this terrace of the lake, through a vista of big trees and over the sloping lawns, is exceedingly pretty. Just behind the chateau is a wooden theatre, and a great shed which serves as a Brasserie. An ornamental chalet and a little kiosk, where glasses of mineral water are sold, complete the buildings. There are five or six tennis courts in the park, and in summer the Eaux Vives is an amusing place to lunch at or to dine at. The prices at the restaurant of the table d'hote meals are fr. 3.50 for breakfast, and fr. 5 for dinner. A 2-franc table d'hote meal is offered' by the Brasserie. Both the Casino and the Brasserie are closed in winter. AFTER DINNER The after-dinner amusements of Switzerland are as simple as the Swiss dinners are. Where there is a Casino there is usually a variety performance after | dinner, and most of the large towns have a theatre which is open in the winter, and which is run much on the same lines as are the municipal theatres in French country towns. The theatre at Geneva aspires ] to higher things than do most of the Swiss theatres, though it is open in the winter months only. Great stars visit it with their companies. I have heard opera very well sung there, and have seen well-played j comedies. The Kursaal contains the variety theatre of the town, and the performances continue until Switzerland 3 1 7 a very late hour, with long intervals, to give the audience an opportunity of playing at the games of chance in the main hall. At the theatre in the Eaux Vives Park operettas and variety shows succeed each other. In the town curious little music halls spring up each spring in unlet shops and big rooms, but they rarely last for longer than one summer season. Towns on the Lake