the one where the passing Anglo-Saxon generally takes his meals, and a chat with the proprietor, Mr. J. F. Frank, is entertaining, for he owns vineyards behind the town, which he is happy to show to any one interested in vine culture, and he makes his wine after the French manner. The wines made by Italy 2 5 1 Frank are Bologna, Saugiovese, Pinot, Cabernet, Trebbiano, White Pinot, Paradiso, Sauvignon, and Sweet Malvasia. The Hotel d’ltalie is more an Italian house, and the Stella d'ltalia, in the Stella d’ltalia, Via Rizzoli, is the typical popular res- 6 Via Rizzoli taurant of the town. At the Albergo Roma, on the Via d’Azeglio, I have lunched on good food for a couple of francs. At the Belletti, a birreria outside the Porta Azeglio, one can obtain a meal in the open air. The Coppalettl I have already referred to. The Perpadelle col Ragout are made of the same dough as the French nouilles , in narrow strips, boiled and seasoned with minced meat and Parmesan cheese. Another variety of this, Perpadelle alia Bolognese , has minced ham as a seasoning. Then come the far- famed sausages, the great Codeghino , boiled and served with spinach or mashed potatoes; the large, ball- shaped Mortadella , which is sometimes eaten raw ; and the stuffed foreleg of a pig, which is boiled and served with spinach and mashed potatoes, and which is a dish the Bolognese “ conveyed ” from Verona. If you thirst for cool clear beer, drink the local Ronzano, and see if it does not remind you of the Pilsener Urquell. Spezzia Not at Spezzia itself, but at Porto Venere on the promontory at the entrance to the bay, will the gour- met find the Zuppa di Datteri , which is the great delicacy of the gulf. The dattero is a shell-fish which in shape resembles a date stone. It has a very delicate taste, and is eaten stewed with tomatoes and served with a layer of toast. The little inn, Del Genio, is not too clean, but the landlord will tell you wonderful tales of Byron and Shelley, the former of whom never really visited Porto Venere, though local tradition has 252 T'he Gourmet's Guide to Europe it that he wrote his Corsair in a grotto near the shore. The Croce di Malta is a harbour of refuge if one is not too particular. Florence The aristocratic restaurants of Florence are both in the Via Tornabuoni. They are those of Doney et Nipote and of Giacosa. They are on opposite sides of the road, both have white marble fronts up to the first floor, both have highly gilt lamps, both are pastry- cooks and tea-shops, both have rooms where the young bloods of the town drink a glass of Marsala or of Zeres, or of Vermouth, and the restaurant of both is on the first floor. When I was last in Florence the Giacosa, Via front rooms of the Giacosa were being Tornabuoni redecorated, and looked as though they would be very bright and pleasant, and the business of the restaurant was for the time being carried on in the back premises. Bono is the successor to the founder of Giacosa’s, but the old name still remains in large letters over the shop.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

the one where the passing Anglo-Saxon generally takes his meals, and a chat with the proprietor, Mr. J. F. Frank, is entertaining, for he owns vineyards behind the town, which he is happy to show to any one interested in vine culture, and he makes his wine after the French manner. The wines made by Italy 2 5 1 Frank are Bologna, Saugiovese, Pinot, Cabernet, Trebbiano, White Pinot, Paradiso, Sauvignon, and Sweet Malvasia. The Hotel d’ltalie is more an Italian house, and the Stella d'ltalia, in the Stella d’ltalia, Via Rizzoli, is the typical popular res- 6 Via Rizzoli taurant of the town. At the Albergo Roma, on the Via d’Azeglio, I have lunched on good food for a couple of francs. At the Belletti, a birreria outside the Porta Azeglio, one can obtain a meal in the open air. The Coppalettl I have already referred to. The Perpadelle col Ragout are made of the same dough as the French nouilles , in narrow strips, boiled and seasoned with minced meat and Parmesan cheese. Another variety of this, Perpadelle alia Bolognese , has minced ham as a seasoning. Then come the farfamed sausages, the great Codeghino , boiled and served with spinach or mashed potatoes; the large, ballshaped Mortadella , which is sometimes eaten raw ; and the stuffed foreleg of a pig, which is boiled and served with spinach and mashed potatoes, and which is a dish the Bolognese “ conveyed ” from Verona. If you thirst for cool clear beer, drink the local Ronzano, and see if it does not remind you of the Pilsener Urquell. Spezzia Not at Spezzia itself, but at Porto Venere on the promontory at the entrance to the bay, will the gourmet find the Zuppa di Datteri , which is the great delicacy of the gulf. The dattero is a shell-fish which in shape resembles a date stone. It has a very delicate taste, and is eaten stewed with tomatoes and served with a layer of toast. The little inn, Del Genio, is not too clean, but the landlord will tell you wonderful tales of Byron and Shelley, the former of whom never really visited Porto Venere, though local tradition has 252 T'he Gourmet's Guide to Europe it that he wrote his Corsair in a grotto near the shore. The Croce di Malta is a harbour of refuge if one is not too particular. Florence The aristocratic restaurants of Florence are both in the Via Tornabuoni. They are those of Doney et Nipote and of Giacosa. They are on opposite sides of the road, both have white marble fronts up to the first floor, both have highly gilt lamps, both are pastrycooks and tea-shops, both have rooms where the young bloods of the town drink a glass of Marsala or of Zeres, or of Vermouth, and the restaurant of both is on the first floor. When I was last in Florence the Giacosa, Via front rooms of the Giacosa were being Tornabuoni redecorated, and looked as though they would be very bright and pleasant, and the business of the restaurant was for the time being carried on in the back premises. Bono is the successor to the founder of Giacosa’s, but the old name still remains in large letters over the shop.

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