Genoa has its own especial Minestrone soup flavoured
with Pesto, a paste in which pounded basil, garlic,
Sardinia cheese, and olive oil✪ Minestrone Soup with Pesto are used ; and the fish
dishes are Stocafissso alia Genovese , stock-fish stewed
with tomatoes, and sometimes with potatoes✪ Stocafissso alia Genovese as well,
and a fry of red mullet, and Moscardini , which are
cuttle-fish, oblong in shape and redolent of musk.
The tripe of Genoa is as celebrated as that of Caen,
and the Vitello Uccelletto , little squares of veal saute
with fresh tomatoes in oil and red wine✪ Vitello Uccelletto, is a very
favourite dish. The Ravioli I have already written of.
The Faina somewhat resembles Yorkshire pudding
made with pease powder✪ Faina and oil. Funghi a Fungetto
are the wild red mushrooms stewed in oil with thyme
and tomatoes✪ Funghi a Fungetto, and Meizanne is a small, bitter egg-
plant, only found on the Riviera, stuffed with a cheese
paste✪ Meizanne and then fried. Pasqualina is an Easter pie.
The figs of Genoa are excellent. The wines are
those delle cinque terre , and in some of the cellars you
will find them dating back sixty years or more.
AFTER DINNER
As in all the other large Italian towns the principal
Opera House, the Carlo Felice, is only open in the
winter months. The music hall in the Via Venti
Settembre, the Verdi, though its entrance is not pre-
possessing, generally has a very good programme. In
the summer it is more pleasant to listen to the band of
an evening in the Aquasola Park than to go to any of
the stuffy minor theatres.
Venice
From the sunlight and the fluster of the grey wings
of the doves in the Piazza San Marco a narrow dark
passage takes you to the all white rooms cappelo Nero,
of the Cappelo Nero, the best known of Merceria
the Venetian restaurants since the Quadri has ceased
to be a restaurant, and only remains a cafe. Over this
lapse of the Quadri I must be permitted to shed a tear,
and to hope that the old maitre (Thotel , who had the
manners of an ambassador, and who assisted one to
order a typical Venetian breakfast with the utmost
delicacy, is leading somewhere a pleasant life of retire-
ment. To return to the Cappelo Nero, it can trace
its history back to *1376, and in 1483 a Turkish
naval captain, who lived there, wrote in its praise.
In the old comic opera, Crispino e la Comare , the
bass is given an air in praise of the good things to
be obtained at the Cappelo. Its principal entrance
is in the Merceria, that bustling street which is the
main artery on land of Venice. It is an hotel as well
as a restaurant, and Garibaldi slept there when he
visited Venice after the war of liberation. The bed
in which he slept is religiously preserved as an historic
relic. The main room of the Cappelo on the Mer-
ceria side is really tastefully decorated in creams and
light colours, its mirrors are in carved frames, and
246 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
Page 134 · 6 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Genoa has its own especial Minestrone soup flavoured with Pesto, a paste in which pounded basil, garlic, Sardinia cheese, and olive oil are used ; and the fish dishes are Stocafissso alia Genovese , stock-fish stewed with tomatoes, and sometimes with potatoes as well, and a fry of red mullet, and Moscardini , which are cuttle-fish, oblong in shape and redolent of musk. The tripe of Genoa is as celebrated as that of Caen, and the Vitello Uccelletto , little squares of veal saute with fresh tomatoes in oil and red wine, is a very favourite dish. The Ravioli I have already written of. The Faina somewhat resembles Yorkshire pudding made with pease powder and oil. Funghi a Fungetto are the wild red mushrooms stewed in oil with thyme and tomatoes, and Meizanne is a small, bitter eggplant, only found on the Riviera, stuffed with a cheese paste and then fried. Pasqualina is an Easter pie. The figs of Genoa are excellent. The wines are those delle cinque terre , and in some of the cellars you will find them dating back sixty years or more.
As in all the other large Italian towns the principal Opera House, the Carlo Felice, is only open in the winter months. The music hall in the Via Venti Settembre, the Verdi, though its entrance is not prepossessing, generally has a very good programme. In the summer it is more pleasant to listen to the band of an evening in the Aquasola Park than to go to any of the stuffy minor theatres.
Venice
From the sunlight and the fluster of the grey wings of the doves in the Piazza San Marco a narrow dark passage takes you to the all white rooms Cappelo Nero of the Cappelo Nero, the best known of Merceria the Venetian restaurants since the Quadri has ceased to be a restaurant, and only remains a cafe. Over this lapse of the Quadri I must be permitted to shed a tear, and to hope that the old maître d'hôtel , who had the manners of an ambassador, and who assisted one to order a typical Venetian breakfast with the utmost delicacy, is leading somewhere a pleasant life of retirement. To return to the Cappelo Nero, it can trace its history back to *1376, and in 1483 a Turkish naval captain, who lived there, wrote in its praise. In the old comic opera, Crispino e la Comare , the bass is given an air in praise of the good things to be obtained at the Cappelo. Its principal entrance is in the Merceria, that bustling street which is the main artery on land of Venice. It is an hotel as well as a restaurant, and Garibaldi slept there when he visited Venice after the war of liberation. The bed in which he slept is religiously preserved as an historic relic. The main room of the Cappelo on the Merceria side is really tastefully decorated in creams and light colours, its mirrors are in carved frames, and
246 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
Records on this page
Minestrone Soup with PestoStocafissso alia GenoveseVitello UccellettoFainaFunghi a FungettoMeizanne