The Scala is a huge barn of a theatre, and is only
open for performances in the winter. It is regarded
as one of the sights of the town, and is shown as such
in the daytime. Nearly every tourist stands on the
stage and tries his or her voice to see how it sounds in
the vast space. A ballet at the Scala is always worth
seeing, for in it the full depth of the enormous stage
is always used. When the Scala is closed opera is
always sung at one of the smaller theatres. The best
comedians in Italy all have a liking for the Manzoni,
and there is generally a very good performance there.
The largest of the variety theatres is the Eden, in the
Via Cairoli, near the castle.
Genoa
Genoa is a town of noise and bustle. The worst
curse one Genoese can pronounce on another is u May
the grass grow before your door.” The special note
of the Genoese cuisine is the use of oil instead of
butter in most of its dishes. The Genoese restaurants
have not the best reputation either for cleanliness or
quiet, and any Englishman or American Bristol Hotel
staying at Bertolini’s Bristol Hotel need Via Ventiset
not think that he has lost any delights tembre
by dining at home in the hotel restaurant, where the
1. 7 table d’hote is a better set meal than any I found in
any of my explorations in the hostelries of the city.
To any one who wishes to dine abroad I should
recommend the Cafe Roma, one entrance to which
Q
242 The Gourmet' s Guide to Europe
is in the Via Roma, and the other in the Great
Gallery. The Roma is both a cafe and a restaurant.
Cafe Roma, It is quite smart in its decorations, clean
Great Gallery and weq furnished, and its dinner of
the day is rather more pretentious as well as more
expensive than those of the ordinary restaurants of the
town. Its cost is 1. 5. This is a menu of an ordinary
dinner of the day on one of the nights I dined there.
Consomme Re Edouard.
Orate Montmorency.
Dindoneau en Capitolodad.
Cavolfiori Polonese.
Gigot de Moutone.
Insalata.
Dolce.
Dessert.
Other restaurants in the Galleria Mazzini are the
Cervisia, which has a front of grey marble, has brilliant
white walls inside, and blazes with electric light both
outside and in. It has a little roof garden, up to which
I did not ascend. I found a rather noisy company in
the big room of the restaurant, and the atmosphere
was not of the best, but both the 2.50 lira lunch and
the 1. 3.50 dinner are abundant, and quite good for the
price.
The Cafe Milano is another birreria ristorante in
the Great Gallery very much on the same lines as the
Cervisia, but not so bright. A third restaurant and
brasserie in this Great Gallery is the Ristorante della
Posta, which is just opposite the Post Office. I passed
it one warm morning at 10 a.m., and saw that every
window of its dining-rooms was tightly closed. That
I considered quite sufficient evidence as to the atmos-
phere I was likely to find inside, and I did not further
investigate.
Of the restaurants in the Via Venti Settembre, the
Italy 243
Page 132
Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The Scala is a huge barn of a theatre, and is only open for performances in the winter. It is regarded as one of the sights of the town, and is shown as such in the daytime. Nearly every tourist stands on the stage and tries his or her voice to see how it sounds in the vast space. A ballet at the Scala is always worth seeing, for in it the full depth of the enormous stage is always used. When the Scala is closed opera is always sung at one of the smaller theatres. The best comedians in Italy all have a liking for the Manzoni, and there is generally a very good performance there. The largest of the variety theatres is the Eden, in the Via Cairoli, near the castle.
Genoa
Genoa is a town of noise and bustle. The worst curse one Genoese can pronounce on another is u May the grass grow before your door.” The special note of the Genoese cuisine is the use of oil instead of butter in most of its dishes. The Genoese restaurants have not the best reputation either for cleanliness or quiet, and any Englishman or American Bristol Hotel staying at Bertolini’s Bristol Hotel need Via Ventiset not think that he has lost any delights tembre by dining at home in the hotel restaurant, where the 1. 7 table d’hote is a better set meal than any I found in any of my explorations in the hostelries of the city.
To any one who wishes to dine abroad I should recommend the Cafe Roma, one entrance to which
Q
242 The Gourmet' s Guide to Europe
is in the Via Roma, and the other in the Great Gallery. The Roma is both a cafe and a restaurant. Cafe Roma, It is quite smart in its decorations, clean Great Gallery and well furnished, and its dinner of the day is rather more pretentious as well as more expensive than those of the ordinary restaurants of the town. Its cost is 1. 5. This is a menu of an ordinary dinner of the day on one of the nights I dined there.
Consomme Re Edouard.
Orate Montmorency.
Dindoneau en Capitolodad.
Cavolfiori Polonese.
Gigot de Moutone.
Insalata.
Dolce.
Dessert.
Other restaurants in the Galleria Mazzini are the Cervisia, which has a front of grey marble, has brilliant white walls inside, and blazes with electric light both outside and in. It has a little roof garden, up to which I did not ascend. I found a rather noisy company in the big room of the restaurant, and the atmosphere was not of the best, but both the 2.50 lira lunch and the 1. 3.50 dinner are abundant, and quite good for the price.
The Cafe Milano is another birreria ristorante in the Great Gallery very much on the same lines as the Cervisia, but not so bright. A third restaurant and brasserie in this Great Gallery is the Ristorante della Posta, which is just opposite the Post Office. I passed it one warm morning at 10 a.m., and saw that every window of its dining-rooms was tightly closed. That I considered quite sufficient evidence as to the atmosphere I was likely to find inside, and I did not further investigate.
Of the restaurants in the Via Venti Settembre, the
Italy 243