foreign diplomatists. No gambling games are al- lowed in this club. The Union Club in the Schadowstrasse is the Jockey Club of Germany. It is very exclusive, most Union, Schadow- of the members being aristocrats, but strasse some few prominent financiers now belong to it. No gambling games are allowed in this club. The cookery at the Union is excellent. The u Club von Berlin,” although not so exclusive, is one of the best clubs. The members belong to the better professional and commercial classes. It is interesting to lunch at this club between 12 and 2 o’clock. Another good club is the “ Resource von 1794.” The members are mostly wealthy bankers and merchants. The “ Club von 1880” is a good club. The members are mostly drawn from the wealthy com- mercial class. The club is quiet during the daytime but lively in the evening, and there is a good deal of card-playing. The Schriftsteller Club is interesting on Tuesday evenings when guests are admitted. Representatives of the leading German newspapers, mostly of conser- vative and imperial tendencies, with a good sprinkling of pan-Germans, can be met here. The atmosphere is distinctly Bohemian. There is no English club. AFTER DINNER The best advice I can give to any Anglo- Saxon is not to trouble to buy his theatre tickets Berlin 231 himself, but to depute that duty to the hall porter of the hotel. There is, however, an agency in Unter den Linden. Prices vary at some of the houses according to whether the production is an expensive one or a cheap one. A seat in a box by no means assures comfort. As often as not it is only by craning forward that one can see a corner of the stage. A gala night at the Opera is a fine sight, and worth paying a large sum to see. All the smaller theatres play comedy, or farce, or operetta. The Lessing is supposed to be a comedy theatre, but I heard ’ The Dollar Princess sung there. The Metropol Theatre is supposed to be a variety theatre, but a musical comedy was, on the last occasion I was in Berlin, enjoying a run there of many hundred nights. The Winter Garden is a vast hall with a stage in one of its long side walls. Two big “wings” fold back when the curtain goes up so that people at the ends of the hall may see something of the performance. As is the usual German custom, many of the people in the auditorium sup during the performance. VIII ITALY Italian Cookery — The Italian Lakes-— Turin — Milan— Genoa — Venice — Bologna — Spezzia — Florence — Pisa — Leghorn — Lucca — Rome — Clubs of Rome — Naples — Palermo. Italian Cookery There is no cookery in Europe so often maligned without cause as that of Italy. People who are not sure of their facts often dismiss it contemptuously as being “ all garlic and oil,” whereas very little oil is used except at Genoa, where oil, and very good oil as a rule, takes the place of butter, and no more garlic than is necessary to give a slight flavour to the dishes in which it plays a part. If you have any fear of the cook being too liberal with the best of all digestives you have only to say “ Senz 9 aglio ” (without garlic), and your wish will very surely be taken notice of. An Italian cook fries better than one of any other nation- ality. In the north very good meat is obtainable^ the boiled beef of Turin being almost equal to our own Silverside.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

foreign diplomatists. No gambling games are allowed in this club. The Union Club in the Schadowstrasse is the Jockey Club of Germany. It is very exclusive, most Union, Schadow- of the members being aristocrats, but strasse some few prominent financiers now belong to it. No gambling games are allowed in this club. The cookery at the Union is excellent. The "Club von Berlin,"” although not so exclusive, is one of the best clubs. The members belong to the better professional and commercial classes. It is interesting to lunch at this club between 12 and 2 o’clock. Another good club is the “ Resource von 1794.” The members are mostly wealthy bankers and merchants. The “ Club von 1880” is a good club. The members are mostly drawn from the wealthy commercial class. The club is quiet during the daytime but lively in the evening, and there is a good deal of card-playing. The Schriftsteller Club is interesting on Tuesday evenings when guests are admitted. Representatives of the leading German newspapers, mostly of conservative and imperial tendencies, with a good sprinkling of pan-Germans, can be met here. The atmosphere is distinctly Bohemian. There is no English club. The best advice I can give to any Anglo- Saxon is not to trouble to buy his theatre tickets Berlin 231 himself, but to depute that duty to the hall porter of the hotel. There is, however, an agency in Unter den Linden. Prices vary at some of the houses according to whether the production is an expensive one or a cheap one. A seat in a box by no means assures comfort. As often as not it is only by craning forward that one can see a corner of the stage. A gala night at the Opera is a fine sight, and worth paying a large sum to see. All the smaller theatres play comedy, or farce, or operetta. The Lessing is supposed to be a comedy theatre, but I heard ’ The Dollar Princess sung there. The Metropol Theatre is supposed to be a variety theatre, but a musical comedy was, on the last occasion I was in Berlin, enjoying a run there of many hundred nights. The Winter Garden is a vast hall with a stage in one of its long side walls. Two big “wings” fold back when the curtain goes up so that people at the ends of the hall may see something of the performance. As is the usual German custom, many of the people in the auditorium sup during the performance. ITALY Italian Cookery — The Italian Lakes-— Turin — Milan— Genoa — Venice — Bologna — Spezzia — Florence — Pisa — Leghorn — Lucca — Rome — Clubs of Rome — Naples — Palermo. Italian Cookery There is no cookery in Europe so often maligned without cause as that of Italy. People who are not sure of their facts often dismiss it contemptuously as being “ all garlic and oil,” whereas very little oil is used except at Genoa, where oil, and very good oil as a rule, takes the place of butter, and no more garlic than is necessary to give a slight flavour to the dishes in which it plays a part. If you have any fear of the cook being too liberal with the best of all digestives you have only to say “ Senz 9 aglio ” (without garlic), and your wish will very surely be taken notice of. An Italian cook fries better than one of any other nationality. In the north very good meat is obtainable^ the boiled beef of Turin being almost equal to our own Silverside.

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