Cookery

of certain dishes which require to be much hotter than others. Herbs, which figure so often in culinary recipes, form a dangerous trap for the unwary, since they mar the best prepared dishes if used indiscriminately. The rough taste noticeable in delicate sauces, gravies, etc., is generally the result of ignorance in this matter. Parsley, probably because it is always at hand, is the principal offender. This requires to be put in as the well-known “ bouquet,” but it should be removed either before straining or before serving. Garlic must of course be used very sparingly, but not set aside entirely, as it frequently is by the British housewife. If it has proved objectionable to her it is merely because it has been misapplied. For most purposes it is sufficient to slightly rub the dish or saucepan in use at the time. Mushrooms dried, or in powder (preferably both), are very necessary in a great many ordinary dishes. The word “ liaison ” is well known to those who have made any study of cookery, though perhaps its importance is not always realised to a sufficient extent. It represents an approved thickening for sauces, used with the object of bringing them to the required consistency. It is on this final operation that the success of the whole largely depends, therefore the point should be well mastered by every cook. A perfect sauce has three characteristics: It must contain good butter, judicious seasoning and proper thickening, besides which the fat must all be carefully removed before serving. For ordinary purposes, then, we will note four principal kinds of thickening, which will be found ample for many more dainty things than are generally included in the term “plain” cooking. First and foremost is the liaison a Vallemande, a delightfully convenient and economical substitute for the real allemande of high-class cookery. For this we are indebted to M. Gouffe of French fame ; it is given among his excellent suggestions in his chapter of sauces for the use of average households. To make this, dissolve a little flour either in water, milk, or stock, as the case may be, in varying proportions of course, which must be determined by the quantity of sauce needed at the time ; strain it through a hairsieve, and pour it slowly into the sauce for which it is intended, stirring all the while with a wooden ladle. Thickening is the last operation in saucemaking, and must be done very carefully, without haste and with steady and continuous stirring carried on for at least five minutes. Thickening, or Liaison d'Œuf.— The eggs must be fresh, and cracked with care, so that the yolks may not be broken ; separate the latter from the white; stir the yolks with a tablespoonful of cold water ; add a small lump of butter not quite as large as a walnut, and into this stir two or three tablespoonfuls of the sauce or soup for which the thickening is intended. When the ingredients are all thoroughly incorporated, and the mixture is quite smooth like crearn, pour it (off the fire) into the sauce ; then put it over the fire again, stirring all the time, just to allow it to thicken slightly, without actually boiling.