When lobsters are cheap, the cost of these pretty
little red cutlets varies from one penny to three-half-
pence each. I once made twenty from a lobster that
cost one shilling and sixpence. There are many
ignorant people, who on seeing such a dish would
imagine that it must be a very extravagant one ; and
yet these same persons would think nothing of having
a dish of six or eight ordinary mutton cutlets handed
round as an entrde, costing at least sixpence each.
Besides, there is no comparison in the appearance of
the two dishes. There are, perhaps, few entrees more
invariably passed by at dinner-parties than mutton
cutlets, unless dressed ones, which, especially when
truffles are used, are very expensive. A dish of bright-
red lobster cutlets, neatly arranged in a silver dish,
with a pile of crisp fried parsley in the centre, always
looks nice ; and if economy is very much thought of,
a few bread-crumbs added to the mass before moulding
will increase the dish, but we don’t recommend the
method : we wish to be practical : and the probable
result of the suggestion to the cook is that the cutlets
Kitchen Economy.
29
will be spoilt, and the cook will have the best claw
for her supper, served aunaturel- — i.e., with the vinegar
aforesaid.
It seems very dreadful, when one comes to think
about it, but how horribly dependent we all are upon
our servants ! and, as a rule, how far less regard have
they to economy than we have ourselves ! This is
probably owing to early education — for instance, the
girl who in childhood has been accustomed to see her
mother buy coals by the apronful. Yes, gentle reader,
such is the fact, which you may see for yourself any
day in some of the poorer neighbourhoods in London.
I recollect a case once in which the apron-strings gave
way, thereby causing the coal-cellar to make a sudden
and unexpected appearance on the pavement, and
calling forth the exclamation of —
“ Drat the thing !”
Yet this very girl, who, as we said, has been used
to see her mother lay in coals in this fashion, when
she goes out to service is so overcome by the inex-
haustible supply, as it seems to her, in a cellar con
taining several tons, that from sheer thoughtlessness
she is extravagant to a degree. In most houses the
ashes are thrown up far more often in the dining-room
than in the kitchen.
Another and ofttimes a more terrible difficulty
that young housekeepers have to contend with, is the
30 Common-sense Cookery.
impenetrable stupidity of the women in her employ. I
recollect a most amusing case that occurred many
years ago in a house at Woolwich. An elderly lady
— one of the good old sort, not above occasional
interference in domestic matters — had personally
superintended the preparation of that somewhat nasty
creature in the raw state, a hare for jugging. The
richest of gravy had been prepared, the joints of the
hare had been neatly browned in a frying-pan without
being cooked. Cloves, port wine, &c. — nothing had
been forgotten, and the whole had been placed in a
large jug, and only required being put to simmer
gently in some boiling water. Now, the elderly lady
wisely thought that the copper would be as safe a
place as any wherein to stand the jug, the water
reaching about half-way up, this method having the
additional advantage of leaving more room on the
kitchen fire, besides obviating the risk of its being upset
by the saucepan — if the jug were plac
Page 9
Presented as published in 1880. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
When lobsters are cheap, the cost of these pretty little red cutlets varies from one penny to three-halfpence each. I once made twenty from a lobster that cost one shilling and sixpence. There are many ignorant people, who on seeing such a dish would imagine that it must be a very extravagant one ; and yet these same persons would think nothing of having a dish of six or eight ordinary mutton cutlets handed round as an entrde, costing at least sixpence each. Besides, there is no comparison in the appearance of the two dishes. There are, perhaps, few entrees more invariably passed by at dinner-parties than mutton cutlets, unless dressed ones, which, especially when truffles are used, are very expensive. A dish of brightred lobster cutlets, neatly arranged in a silver dish, with a pile of crisp fried parsley in the centre, always looks nice ; and if economy is very much thought of, a few bread-crumbs added to the mass before moulding will increase the dish, but we don’t recommend the method : we wish to be practical : and the probable result of the suggestion to the cook is that the cutlets
Kitchen Economy.
will be spoilt, and the cook will have the best claw for her supper, served au naturel — i.e., with the vinegar aforesaid.
It seems very dreadful, when one comes to think about it, but how horribly dependent we all are upon our servants ! and, as a rule, how far less regard have they to economy than we have ourselves ! This is probably owing to early education — for instance, the girl who in childhood has been accustomed to see her mother buy coals by the apronful. Yes, gentle reader, such is the fact, which you may see for yourself any day in some of the poorer neighbourhoods in London. I recollect a case once in which the apron-strings gave way, thereby causing the coal-cellar to make a sudden and unexpected appearance on the pavement, and calling forth the exclamation of —
“ Drat the thing !”
Yet this very girl, who, as we said, has been used to see her mother lay in coals in this fashion, when she goes out to service is so overcome by the inexhaustible supply, as it seems to her, in a cellar con taining several tons, that from sheer thoughtlessness she is extravagant to a degree. In most houses the ashes are thrown up far more often in the dining-room than in the kitchen.
Another and ofttimes a more terrible difficulty that young housekeepers have to contend with, is the
30 Common-sense Cookery.
impenetrable stupidity of the women in her employ. I recollect a most amusing case that occurred many years ago in a house at Woolwich. An elderly lady — one of the good old sort, not above occasional interference in domestic matters — had personally superintended the preparation of that somewhat nasty creature in the raw state, a hare for jugging. The richest of gravy had been prepared, the joints of the hare had been neatly browned in a frying-pan without being cooked. Cloves, port wine, &c. — nothing had been forgotten, and the whole had been placed in a large jug, and only required being put to simmer gently in some boiling water. Now, the elderly lady wisely thought that the copper would be as safe a place as any wherein to stand the jug, the water reaching about half-way up, this method having the additional advantage of leaving more room on the kitchen fire, besides obviating the risk of its being upset by the saucepan — if the jug were placed