This soaking process had best be con-
tinued for three days and nights, at the end of which
period the flesh will be, comparatively speaking, soft,
especially the thinner pieces. The last twelve hours
the water may be quite warm, but not hotter than
that the cook’s hand can be borne in it without
inconvenience.
The turtle- flesh must be then cut up into small
pieces about two inches square, and boiled for about
twelve hours in some stock prepared as follows — and
214
Common-sense Cookery.
it is in the preparation of this stock that the real
secret of making good turtle soup lies.
Now, turtle soup requires far stronger stock than
is required for ordinary soup, and it should be borne
in mind that it is always considered a great luxury,
and when purchased ready-made the usual price is a
guinea a quart. I have mentioned this, as I consider
in the present day an apology is due for recommend-
ing the buying of gravy-beef for making soups for
small families where economy is of the slightest
moment. It is, as a rule, quite unnecessary.
But to proceed — we consider real turtle rather an
exception to general rules : —
Take a pound and a half of gravy -beef, an equal
quantity of knuckle of veal, and one slice of lean raw
ham, and place them in a large saucepan, which we
will suppose to be perfectly clean, lid as Avell. Place
in also the following : — One head of celery, two
onions — one of which has half a dozen cloves stuck
in it — a small turnip and carrot, about as much parsley
as would fill a tea-cup, two tea-spoonfuls of dried
marjoram, two tea-spoonfuls of dried basil, half a tea-
spoonful of lemon-thyme, and rather less than half a
tea-spoonful of a herb called pennyroyal. All these
herbs can be obtained at Covent-Garden Market in
sixpenny and shilling bottles, the latter herb being
sold by the bunch. Add a small tea-spoonful of salt
Turtle Soup.
215
and a little cayenne pepper✪ Turtle Soup, bearing in mind that
these last commodities vary considerably in strength,
and that it is always easy to add more, but impossible
to take back. Fill the saucepan, which ought to be a
gallon one, nearly full with cold water. Put it on the
fire to simmer gently for at least twelve hours, occa-
sionally skimming off any scum that may have risen.
Unless the above has been placed on the fire early in
the morning, it will be necessary to continue the
operation of extracting the flavour and goodness from
the meat, herbs, &c., the following day, in which case
recollect that the whole must be turned out into a
large basin at night, and covered over with a cloth.
Inexperienced cooks would do well to bear in mind
the following maxim : — If soup be left in the saticepan
all night , it will be utterly spoilt.
When the above has simmered long enough, and
has been reduced by this means to about two quarts,
it must be carefully strained into a basin, and all the
fat removed in the usual way. We would then re-
commend as follows, premising that it is not absolutely
necessary, though a great improvement, mentioning this
as in some parts of the country the ingredient could
not be obtained.
Get, if possible, a couple of pounds of conger-eel,
and boil it in the stock for an hour or more ; this had
better be done where conger-eel is readily obtained,
2l6
Common-sense Cookery.
Page 87 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1880. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
This soaking process had best be continued for three days and nights, at the end of which period the flesh will be, comparatively speaking, soft, especially the thinner pieces. The last twelve hours the water may be quite warm, but not hotter than that the cook’s hand can be borne in it without inconvenience.
The turtle- flesh must be then cut up into small pieces about two inches square, and boiled for about twelve hours in some stock prepared as follows — and
Common-sense Cookery.
it is in the preparation of this stock that the real secret of making good turtle soup lies.
Now, turtle soup requires far stronger stock than is required for ordinary soup, and it should be borne in mind that it is always considered a great luxury, and when purchased ready-made the usual price is a guinea a quart. I have mentioned this, as I consider in the present day an apology is due for recommending the buying of gravy-beef for making soups for small families where economy is of the slightest moment. It is, as a rule, quite unnecessary.
But to proceed — we consider real turtle rather an exception to general rules : —
Take a pound and a half of gravy -beef, an equal quantity of knuckle of veal, and one slice of lean raw ham, and place them in a large saucepan, which we will suppose to be perfectly clean, lid as well. Place in also the following : — One head of celery, two onions — one of which has half a dozen cloves stuck in it — a small turnip and carrot, about as much parsley as would fill a tea-cup, two tea-spoonfuls of dried marjoram, two tea-spoonfuls of dried basil, half a teaspoonful of lemon-thyme, and rather less than half a tea-spoonful of a herb called pennyroyal. All these herbs can be obtained at Covent-Garden Market in sixpenny and shilling bottles, the latter herb being sold by the bunch. Add a small tea-spoonful of salt
Turtle Soup.
and a little cayenne pepper, bearing in mind that these last commodities vary considerably in strength, and that it is always easy to add more, but impossible to take back. Fill the saucepan, which ought to be a gallon one, nearly full with cold water. Put it on the fire to simmer gently for at least twelve hours, occasionally skimming off any scum that may have risen. Unless the above has been placed on the fire early in the morning, it will be necessary to continue the operation of extracting the flavour and goodness from the meat, herbs, &c., the following day, in which case recollect that the whole must be turned out into a large basin at night, and covered over with a cloth. Inexperienced cooks would do well to bear in mind the following maxim : — If soup be left in the saucepan all night , it will be utterly spoilt.
When the above has simmered long enough, and has been reduced by this means to about two quarts, it must be carefully strained into a basin, and all the fat removed in the usual way. We would then recommend as follows, premising that it is not absolutely necessary, though a great improvement, mentioning this as in some parts of the country the ingredient could not be obtained.
Get, if possible, a couple of pounds of conger-eel, and boil it in the stock for an hour or more ; this had better be done where conger-eel is readily obtained,
Common-sense Cookery.
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Turtle Soup