Next the four entries were uncovered, and the
silver lids taken out of the room, for the handles to be
unscrewed, the dishes wiped, rubbed with a leather
A Nice Little Dinner. 8i
for a minute, and then they made four new silver
dishes for the sweets. Tire entre'es were as follows : —
Oyster patties, curried rabbit, stewed kidneys, and
what used to be called a beef olive — which consisted
of a steak rolled with veal stuffing, and some very
thick brown gravy✪ Beef Olive poured over it.
After all these had been partially consumed, the
covers were taken off what is termed the pike tie
resistance , which consisted of a huge sirloin of beef,
looking somewhat like the host himself, fat and jolly,
with scraped horse-radish instead of grey hair ; or
perhaps a fine haunch of mutton, with a paper frill
round its wrist, something like a lady’s cuff.
At the other end of the table were generally two
large capons, with a boiled tongue between them ;
beside which, two side-dishes, the one a pigeon pie,
and the other a small York ham.
We will not go on to describe the second course.
As a rule, lady housekeepers have no difficulty in
superintending this part of the dinner. There are
hundreds and thousands of ladies who can make a
splendid dish of trifle or a mould of jelly, who would
not have the slightest idea of gravy. It was but
yesterday I was dining out where the gravy was handed
round, which looked and tasted like pale, weak beef-tea,
which in truth it was.
At other places, too, cooks seem to think that
F
82
Common-sense Cookery.
when gravy is required, all they have to do is to put a
little of the soup in the sauce-tureen, and send it up.
We would inform them that soup and gravy are
two distinct things. Perhaps at some future period
we may have a whole article on gravy, for gravy is a
very weak point with inexperienced cooks.
But to return to the dinner above-mentioned. We
do not for one moment wish it to be understood that
we complain of it. It is a sort of dinner that makes
people, when they come home late in the evening, at any
rate feel they have dined, and do not, as is too often
the case after some of those large dinners where fruit,
flowers, and ice abound, on their arrival want a sand-
wich and glass of sherry or brandy and soda before
going to bed. What we do maintain is that it is
exceedingly expensive, and that a handsome little din-
ner ct la Russe can be served up for less than half the
money.
One strange thing in connection with the subject
is that when the a la Russe style was first introduced
into this country, nearly all those persons who may be
described generally as homely people, who make a point
of always keeping well in the wake of fashion rather
than the van, we say those persons had an idea that
the new style was very elegant, but that they could
not afford it. We believe that there is still an
impression abroad that a dinner a la Russe must
A Nice Little Dinner.
33
necessarily be a very expensive affair ; we will there-
fore proceed to describe a cheap but nice-looking little
dinner, and, if space permit, how to make the dishes.
Page 32 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1880. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Next the four entries were uncovered, and the silver lids taken out of the room, for the handles to be unscrewed, the dishes wiped, rubbed with a leather
A Nice Little Dinner. 8i
for a minute, and then they made four new silver dishes for the sweets. The entrées were as follows : — Oyster patties, curried rabbit, stewed kidneys, and what used to be called a beef olive — which consisted of a steak rolled with veal stuffing, and some very thick brown gravy poured over it.
After all these had been partially consumed, the covers were taken off what is termed the pièce de résistance , which consisted of a huge sirloin of beef, looking somewhat like the host himself, fat and jolly, with scraped horse-radish instead of grey hair ; or perhaps a fine haunch of mutton, with a paper frill round its wrist, something like a lady’s cuff.
At the other end of the table were generally two large capons, with a boiled tongue between them ; beside which, two side-dishes, the one a pigeon pie, and the other a small York ham.
We will not go on to describe the second course. As a rule, lady housekeepers have no difficulty in superintending this part of the dinner. There are hundreds and thousands of ladies who can make a splendid dish of trifle or a mould of jelly, who would not have the slightest idea of gravy. It was but yesterday I was dining out where the gravy was handed round, which looked and tasted like pale, weak beef-tea, which in truth it was.
At other places, too, cooks seem to think that
F
Common-sense Cookery.
when gravy is required, all they have to do is to put a little of the soup in the sauce-tureen, and send it up.
We would inform them that soup and gravy are two distinct things. Perhaps at some future period we may have a whole article on gravy, for gravy is a very weak point with inexperienced cooks.
But to return to the dinner above-mentioned. We do not for one moment wish it to be understood that we complain of it. It is a sort of dinner that makes people, when they come home late in the evening, at any rate feel they have dined, and do not, as is too often the case after some of those large dinners where fruit, flowers, and ice abound, on their arrival want a sandwich and glass of sherry or brandy and soda before going to bed. What we do maintain is that it is exceedingly expensive, and that a handsome little dinner ct la Russe can be served up for less than half the money.
One strange thing in connection with the subject is that when the a la Russe style was first introduced into this country, nearly all those persons who may be described generally as homely people, who make a point of always keeping well in the wake of fashion rather than the van, we say those persons had an idea that the new style was very elegant, but that they could not afford it. We believe that there is still an impression abroad that a dinner a la Russe must
A Nice Little Dinner.
necessarily be a very expensive affair ; we will therefore proceed to describe a cheap but nice-looking little dinner, and, if space permit, how to make the dishes.
Records on this page
Beef Olive