Modern cookery, in all its branches

Portions only of the skate, which is frequently of enormous size, are used as food : these are in general cut out by the fisherman or by the salesman, and are called the wings. The flesh is commonly served here divided into long narrow fillets, called crimped skate, which are rolled up and fastened, to preserve them in that form, while they are cooked. In France, it is sent to table raised from the bones in large portions, sauced with beurre-noir (burned or browned butter), and strewed with well -crisped parsley. Trout, which is a delicious fish when stewed in gravy, either quite simply, or with the addition of wine and various condiments, and which when of small size is very sweet and pleasant, eating nicely fried, is poor and insipid when plainly boiled.* Pike, of which the flesh is extremely dry, is, we think, better baked than dressed in any other way ; but it is often boiled. Carp should either be stewed whole in the same manner as trout, or served cut in slices, in a rich sauce called a matelote. Smelts, sand-eels, and white -bait, are always fried ; the last two sometimes after being dipped into batter. THE BEST MODE OF BOILING FISH. We have left unaltered in the following receipts the greater number of our original directions for boiling fish, which were found when carefully followed, to produce a good result ; but Baron Liebeg and other scientific writers explain clearly the principles on which the nutriment contained in fish or flesh is best retained by bringing the surface of either when it is cooked, into immediate contact with boiling water ; and then (after a few minutes of ebullition) lowering the temperature by the addition of cold water, and keeping it somewhat below the boiling point for the remainder of the process. This method is at least worthy of a trial, even if it be attended with a slight degree more of trouble than those in general use ; but when fish is served with a variety of other dishes, the escape of some portion of its nutritious juices is of less importance than when it forms the principal food of any part of the community : in that case, the preservation of * We have been informed by Mr. Howitt, the well-known author of several highly interesting works on Germany, that this fish, when boiled the instant it was caught — as he had eaten it often on the hanks of some celebrated German trout-streams — was most excellent, especially when it was of large size ; but, as a general rule, almost any other mode of cooking is to be recommended for it in preference. fcnAP. IL all the nourishment which can be derived from it, is of real consequence. Directions. — Throw into as much water as will cover the fish entirely, a portion of the salt which is to be added in cooking it, and when it boils quickly take off the scum, lay in the fish, and let it boil moderately fast from three to ten minutes, according to its weight and thickness ; then pour in as much cold water as there is of the boiling, take out a part, leaving sufficient only to keep the fbh well covered until it is ready to serve ; add the remainder of the salt, draw the fish-kettle to the side of the fire, and keep the water just simmering , and no more, until the fish is done.