Modern cookery, in all its branches

A well-selected and well-arranged dessert, however simple in its character, may always be rendered agreeable to the eye and to the taste : but in no department of the table can so much that is attractive to both be more readily combined ; and at the present day an unusual degree of luxury is often displayed in it, the details of which, however, would be out of place here. Forced strawberries of magnificent size, and of the best varieties, brought by culture and management all to perfection on the same day, and served on their plants, in the pots in which they are grown, concealed in others of porcelain or of chased silver, are amongst the expensive novelties now commonly introduced at costly dinners of display, and may serve as an illustration of it * * To these may he added miniature fruit trees in full bearing placed down the centre of the table, and intermingled with the choicest exotics. [chap. XXVIII. Far common occasions, a few dishes of really fresh fruit tastefully disposed and embedded in large green leaves, will be all that is required for a plain summer or autumn dessert ; and at other parts of the year such as are appropriate to the season ; but from the immense variety of cakes, biscuits, confections, ices, bonbons, and other sucreries (some of them extremely brilliant in appearance), and of fruit native and foreign, fresh, dried, and preserved in every possible manner which are adapted to them, desserts may be served in any kind of style. PEARLED FRUIT, OR FRUIT EN CHEMISE. Select for this dish very fine bunches of red and white currants, large ripe cherries, and gooseberries of different colours, and strawberries or raspberries very freshly gathered. Beat up the white of an egg with about half as much cold water, dip the fruit into this mixture, drain it on a sieve for an instant, and then roll it in fine sifted sugar until it is covered in every part ; give it a gentle shake, and lay it on sheets of white paper to dry. In England, thin gumwater is sometimes used, we believe, for this dish, instead of the white of egg; we give, however, the French method of preparing it. It will dry gradually in a warm room, or a sunny window, in the course of three or four hours. Obs. — This is an inexpensive dish, which if well prepared has the appearance of fine confectionary. The incrustation of sugar much increases too the apparent size of the fruit. That which is used for it should be of the best quality, and fine and dry. When it becomes moist from the fruit being rolled in it, it will no longer adhere to it as it ought. SALAD OF MIXED SUMMER FRUITS. Heap a dessert- dish quite high with alternate layers of fine fresh strawberries stripped from the stalks, white and red currants, and white or red raspberries ; strew each layer plentifully with sifted sugar, and just before the dish is sent to table, pour equally over the top two wineglassesful of sherry, Madeira, or any other good white wine. Very thick Devonshire cream may be laid entirely over the fruit, instead of the wine being mingled with it. Currants by themselves are excellent prepared in this way, and strawberries also. The fruit should be gently stirred with a spoon when it is served. EacI variety must be picked with great nicety from the stalks. PEACH SALAD.