Modern cookery, in all its branches

Quite plain buns without butter. — Very good light buns may be made entirely without butter, but they must be tolerably fresh when served. To make them, dilute very smoothly an ounce of sweet German yeast or a large tablespoonful of quite solid and well washed English yeast with a pint of warm new milk ; mix this immediately with as much flour as it wdll convert into a rather thick batter, throw a double cloth over the pan, and place it where the warmth of the fire will search, without heating it. When it is well risen and bubbles appear on the top, add a little salt, some pounded sugar, and as much flour as will form it into a light dough. Leave it to rise again, when it will probably be too little firm for moulding with the fingers, and must be beaten up with a strong wooden spoon and put into cups or tin pans slightly buttered, to be baked. The buns should be sent to a quick oven, and baked until the entire surface is well browned. These directions may appear to the reader somewhat vague ; but we must frankly state that we have no precise memorandum by us of this receipt, though we have had buns made by it very successfully in former years : we cannot, however, exactly recall the proportion of flour which was used for them, but believe it was about two pounds. For this quantity half a pound of sugar would be sufficient. The batter will be a long time rising to the proper height ; an hour and a half or two hours. Currants, carraways, nutmeg, or mixed spices, can always be added at discretion. It is usual to strew a few currants on the tops of the buns before they are baked. To render them richer and firmer, it is merely necessary to diminish the proportion of milk, and to crumble up very small two or more ounces of butter in the flour which is added to the batter after it has risen. When again quite light, the dough may then be rolled into balls, and placed on flat tins some inches apart until they have spread to the proper shape. Confectioners generally wash the tops with milk, and sift a little sugar over them. Exeter Buns. — These are somewhat celebrated in the city whose name they bear, especially those of one maker whose secret for them we have recently obtained. Instead of being made into a dough with milk, Devonshire cream is used for them, either entirely or in part. If very thick, a portion of water should be added to it, or the yeast would not ferment freely. The better plan is to dilute it with a quarter of a pint or rather more of warm water, and when it is sufficiently risen to make up the buns lightly, like bread, with the cream, 560 MODERN COOKERY. [chap. xxyi. which must also be warm ; then to proceed by the receipt given above. TL AIN DESSERT OR WINE BISCUITS, AND GINGER BISCUITS. Rub very small indeed, two ounces of fresli butter into a pound of flour, and make it into a stiff paste with new milk. Roll it out half an inch thick, and cut the biscuits with a round cutter the size of 1 alf-a-crown. Rile them one on the other until all are done ; then roll them out very thin, prick them, and lay them on lightly-floured tins, the pricked side downwards : a few minutes will bake them, in a moderate oven They should be very crisp, and but slightly browned.