Modern cookery, in all its branches

Strip off the outer leaves, wipe, and slice a fine sound cabbage or two extremely thin, sprinkle plenty of salt over them, and let them drain in a sieve, or on a strainer for twelve hours or more ; shake or press the moisture from them ; put them into clean stone jars, and cover them well with cold vinegar, in which an ounce of black pepper to the quart has been boiled. Some persons merely cover the vegetable with strong, unboiled vinegar, but this is not so well. [chap. XXVI. s' CHAPTER XXVI Cal«s. GENERAL REMARKS ON CAKES. We have inserted here but a comparatively limited number of receipts for these “ sweet poisons as they have been emphatically called, and we would willingly have diminished still further even the space which has been allotted to them, that we might have had room in their stead for others of a more really useful character ; but we have felt reluctant to withdraw . uch a portion of any of the chapters as might materially alter the original character of the work, or cause dissatisfaction to any of our kind readers ; we will therefore content ourselves with remarking, that more illness is caused by habitual indulgence in the richer and heavier kinds of cakes than would easily be credited by persons who have given no attention to the subject. Amongst those which have the worst effects are almond, and plum pound cakes, as they are called ; all varieties of the brioche and such others as contain a large quantity of butter and eggs. The least objectionable are simple buns, biscuits, yeast and sponge cakes, and meringues ; these last being extremely light and delicate, and made of white of egg and sugar only, are really not unwholesome. The ingredients for cakes, as well as for puddings, should all be fresh and good, as well as free from damp ; the lightness of many kinds depends entirely on that given to the eggs by whisking, and by the manner in which the whole is mixed. A small portion of carbonate of soda, which will not be in the slightest degree perceptible to the taste after the cake is baked, if thrown in just before the mixture is put into the oven, will ensure its rising well. To guard against the bitterness so often imparted by yeast when it is used for cakes or biscuits, it should be sparingly added, and the sponge should be left twice the usual time to rise. This method will be found to answer equally with bread For example : should a couple of spoonsful of yeast be ordered in a receipt, when it is bitter, use but one, and let it stand twro hours instead of half the time : the fermentation, though slow, will be quite as perfect as if it were more quickly effected, and the cake or loaf thus made will not become dry by any means as soon as if a larger portion of yeast were mixed with it. The German yeast when fresh is preferable to any other for all light cakes, being made without hops and therefore never bitter. All light cakes require a rather brisk oven to raise and set them ; very large rich ones a well-sustained degree of heat sufficient to bake them through ; and small sugar-cakes a slow oven, to prevent their taking a deep colour before they are half done : gingerbread, too, should be gently baked, unless it be of the light thick kind. Meringues, macaroons, and ratafias, will bear a slight degree more of heat than these.