Modern cookery, in all its branches

&c., require a very gentle oven, and are spoiled by fast-baking. Those made of batter on the contrary, should be put into one sufficiently brisk to raise them quickly but without scorching them. Such as contain suet and raisins must have a well-heated but not a fierce oven ; for as they must remain long in it to be thoroughly done, unless carefully managed they will either be much too highly coloured or too dry. By whisking to a solid froth the whites of the eggs used for any pudding, and stirring them softly into it at the instant of placing it in the oven it will be rendered exceedingly light, and will rise very high in the dish ; but as it will partake then of the nature of a [chap. xxi. souffle, it must be despatched with great expedition to table from the oven, or it will become flat before it is served. When a pudding is sufficiently browned on the surface (that is to say, of a fine equal amber-colour) before it is baked through, a sheet of writing paper should be laid over it, but not before it is set: when quite firm in the centre it will be done. Potato, batter, plum, and every other kind of pudding indeed which is sufficiently solid to allow of it, should be turned on to a clean hot dish from the one in which it is baked, and strewed with sifted sugar before it is sent to table. Minute directions for the preparation and management of each particular variety of pudding will be found in the receipt for it. A BAKED PLUM PUDDING EN MOITLE, OR MOULDED. Mingle thoroughly in a large pan or bowl half a pound of the nicest beef-kidney suet minced very small, half a pound of carefully stoned raisins, as many currants, four ounces of pounded sugar, half a pound of flour, two ounces of candied citron and lemon or orange rind, four large well whisked eggs, a small cup of milk, a glass of brandy, a tiny pinch of salt, and some nutmeg or powdered ginger. Beat the whole up lightly, pour it into a well-buttered mould or cake-tin and bake it in a moderate oven from an hour and a half to two hours. Turn it from the mould and send it quickly to table with Devonshire cream , or melted apricot marmalade for sauce. the printer’s pudding. Grate very lightly six ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf, and put it into a deep dish. Dissolve in a quart of cold new milk four ounces of good Lisbon sugar ; add it to five large, well-whisked eggs, strain, and mix them with the bread-crumbs ; stir in two ounces of a fresh finely-grated cocoa-nut; add a flavouring of nutmeg or of lemon-rind, and the slightest pinch of salt ; let the pudding stand for a couple of hours to soak the bread ; and bake it in a gentle oven lor three-quarters of an hour : it will be excellent if carefully made, and not too quickly baked. When the cocoa-nut is not at hand, an ounce of butter just dissolved, should be poured over the dish before the crumbs are put into it ; and the rind of an entire lemon may be used to give it flavour ; but the cocoa-nut imparts a peculiar richness when it is good and fresh. Bread-crumbs, 6 oz. ; new milk, 1 quart ; sugar, 4 oz. ; eggs, 5 ; cocoa-nut, 2 oz. (or rind, 1 large lemon, and 1 oz. butter) ; slightest pinch of salt : to stand 2 hours. Baked in gentle oven full | hour. Ohs. — When a very sweet pudding is liked, the proportion of sugar may be increased.