Modern cookery, in all its branches

t of the meat ) to be diffused through the broth. Thus, from the simple circumstance of boiling it in the gentlest manner, a relishing and nutritious soup will be obtained, and a dish of tender and palatable meat ; but if the pot be placed and kept over a quick fire, the albumen will coagulate, harden the meat, prevent the water from penetrating it, and the osmazome from disengaging itself; the result will be a broth without flavour or goodness, and a tough, dry bit of meat.” It must be observed in addition, that as the meat of which the bouillon is made, is almost invariably sent to table, a part of the rump, the mouse-buttock, or the leg-of-mutton piece of beef, should be selected for it ; and the simmering should be continued only until this is perfectly tender. When the object is simply to make good, pure- * This is a large proportion of meat for the family of a French artisan , a pound to the quart would be nearer the reality ; but it is not the refuse-meat which wouli be purchased b^ persons of the same rank in England for making broth flavoured, beef broth, part of the shin or leg, with a pound or two of the neck, will best answer the purpose. When the bouilli (that is to say, the beef which is boiled in the soup), is to be served, bind it into a good shape, add to it a calf s foot if easily procurable, as this much improves the quality of the bouillon ; pour cold water to it in the proportion mentioned above, and proceed, as Monsieur Careme directs, to heat the soup slowly by the side of the fire ; remove carefully the head of scum which will gather on the surface before the boiling commences, and continue the skimming at intervals for about twenty minutes longer, pouring in once or twice a little cold water. Next, add salt in the proportion of two ounces to the gallon ; this will cause a little more scum to rise ; clear it quite off and throw in three or four turnips, as many carrots, half a head of celery,, four or five young leeks, an onion stuck with six or eight cloves, a large half tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a bunch of savoury herbs. Let the whole stew very softly without ceasing, from four hours and a half to six hours, according to the quantity : the beef in that time will be extremely tender but not overdone. It will be excellent eating if properly managed, and might often, we think, be substituted with great advantage for the hard, half-boiled, salted beef so often seen at an English table. It should be served with a couple of cabbages, which have been first boiled in the usual way, then pressed very dry, and stewed for ten minutes in a little of the broth, and seasoned with pepper and salt. The other vegetables from the bouillon may be laid round it or not at choice. The soup if served on the same day must be strained, well cleared from fat, and sent to table with fried or toasted bread, unless the continental mode of putting slices or crusts of untoasted bread into the tureen, and soaking them for ten minutes in a ladleful or two of the bouillon , be, from custom, preferred. Beef, 8 to 9 lbs, ; water, 6 quarts ; salt, 3 oz. (more, if needed) ; carrots, 4 to 6 ; turnips, 4 or 5 ; celery, one small head ; leeks, 4 to 6 ; one onion, stuck with 6 cloves ; peppercorns, one small teaspoonful ; large bunch of savoury herbs (calf s foot if convenient) ; to simmer 5 to 6 hours.