Modern cookery, in all its branches

To make Ruth Pinch's celebrated pudding (known also as beefsteak pudding a la Dickens ), substitute six ounces of butter for the suet in this receipt, and moisten the paste with the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, or with three whole ones, mixed with a little water; butter the basin very thickly before the paste is laid in, as the pudding is to be turned out of it for table. In all else proceed exactly as above. MUTTON PUDDING. Mutton freed perfectly from fat, and mixed with two or three sliced kidneys, makes an excellent pudding. The meat may be sprinkled with fine herbs as it is laid into the crust. This will require rather less boiling than the preceding puddings, but it is made in precisely the same way. PARTRIDGE PUDDING. ( Very Good.) Skin a brace of well-kept partridges and cut them down into joints; line a deep basin with suet crust, observing the directions given in the preceding receipts ; lay in the birds, which should be rather highly seasoned with pepper or cayenne, and moderately with salt ; pour in water for the gravy, close the pudding with care, and boil it from three hours to three and a half. The true flavour of the game is admirably preserved by this mode of cooking. When mushrooms are plentiful, put a layer of buttons, or small flaps, cleaned as for pickling, alternately with a layer of partridge, in filling the pudding, which will then be most excellent eating : the crust may be left untouched, and merely emptied of its contents, where it is objected to, or its place may be supplied with a richer one made of butter. A seasoning of pounded mace or nutmeg can be used at discretion. Puddings of veal, chickens, and young rabbits, may all be made by this receipt, or with the addition of oysters, which we have already noticed. A PEAS PUDDING. (To serve with boiled pork.) Separate carefully from a pint of good mellow split peas, all that are worm-eaten ; wash the remainder well, and soak them for a night m plenty of soft water. The following day tie them up in a thick pudding cloth, giving them room to swell, cover them well with cold soft water and boil them gently from two hours to two and a half: if they are not then quite tender, they are of bad quality, and cannot [chap. XX. * 402 be rendered so. Lift them into a cullender, untie the cloth, and crush them to a paste with a wooden spoon, stir in a good slice of butter, and a seasoning of pepper and salt, tie them up again very tight, and boil them for half an hour ; turn the pudding gently into a dish that it may not break, and serve it as hot as possible. This is the common old-fashioned mode of preparing a peas pudding, and many persons prefer it to the more modern one which follows. Soak, and boil the peas as above, drain the water well from them before the cloth is untied, rub them through a cullender or sieve, mix the seasoning and the butter thoroughly with them, then add to them gradually three well whisked eggs, tie the mixture tightly and closely in a floured cloth, and boil it for one hour. Good split peas, 1 pint ; soaked in soft water 1 night. Boiled 2 to 2.1 hours. Butter, 1 oz. : salt, pepper : boil again 20 to 30 minutes. Or: butter, 1^ oz. ; eggs, 3: boiled 1 hour.