As it is in constant demand for luxuriously-served tables, and has
hitherto, we believe, baffled all attempts to increase it by cultivation,
it bears usually a high price in the English market, f and is seldom
to be had cheap in any ; but although too costly for common con-
sumption, where the expenditure is regulated by rational economy,
it may at times be made to supply, at a reasonable expense, some
excellent store-preparations for the breakfast and luncheon-table ; as
a small portion will impart its peculiar flavour to them.
The blackest truffles are considered the best. All are in their
Serfection during the latter part of November, December, and
anuary ; though they may be procured usually from October to
March; yet as they are peculiarly subject to decay — or, properly
speaking, become really putrid — from exposure to the air, it is an
advantage to have them as early in their season as may be.
In sumptuous households the very finest foreign truffles are often
served as a vegetable in the second course.
* It has been named by a celebrated gastronomer of past days, “ Le diamanl
de la cuisine .”
+ Varying from eight to sixteen shillings the pound at the best foreign ware-
houses. The truffles which are pared, bottled and steamed like fruit, are more
expensive still ; but they can be kept after the season of the fresh ones is entirely
past. Englisli tfuffles — which are found in Hampshire (in the New Forest) —
and in some few other of our counties, are very good, though seldom or ever
equal in quality to those of France, Germany, and of different parts of Italy.
The most esteemed of the French ones are from Perigord,
332
MODERN COOKERY.
[chap. xvil.
TO PREPARE TRUFFLES FOR USE.
First soak them for an hour or two in fresh water, to loosen the
earth which adheres to them ; then rinse them well from it, and with
a hard brush scrub them until not a particle of the mould in which
they have been embedded can be seen upon them. This part of the
operation should be especially attended to, because the parings are as
useful as the truffles themselves. It is often needful to leave them
longer in the water after it has been changed ; and even to soak them
sometimes in lukewarm water also : when they are perfectly cleaned,
wipe them gently with a soft cloth, or fold them in to dry, should
they be wanted for any preparation to which moisture would be
injurious.
TRUFFLES A LA SERVIETTE.
Select the finest truffles for this dish, be particular in smelling
them, and reject any that have a musty smell. Wash and brush
them well with cold water only, change it several times, and when
they are perfectly clean line a stewpan with slices of bacon ; put in
the truffles with a bunch of parsley, green onions, and thyme, two or
three bay- leaves, half a dozen cloves, and a little sweet basil ; pour in
sufficient rich veal gravy to cover them, with the addition of from
half a pint to half a bottle of champagne✪ Truffles a la Serviette ; boil them very softly for
an hour, then draw them aside and let them cool in the gravy
Heat them afresh in it when they are wanted for table ; lift them out
and drain them in a very clean cloth, and dish them neatly in a fine
and beautifully white napkin, which will contrast as strongly as pos-
sible with the dark hue of the truffles.
TRUFFLES A l’iTALIENNE. ✪ Truffles a l’Italienne
Page 302 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1884. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
As it is in constant demand for luxuriously-served tables, and has hitherto, we believe, baffled all attempts to increase it by cultivation, it bears usually a high price in the English market, f and is seldom to be had cheap in any ; but although too costly for common consumption, where the expenditure is regulated by rational economy, it may at times be made to supply, at a reasonable expense, some excellent store-preparations for the breakfast and luncheon-table ; as a small portion will impart its peculiar flavour to them.
The blackest truffles are considered the best. All are in their
perfection during the latter part of November, December, and January ; though they may be procured usually from October to March; yet as they are peculiarly subject to decay — or, properly speaking, become really putrid — from exposure to the air, it is an advantage to have them as early in their season as may be.
In sumptuous households the very finest foreign truffles are often served as a vegetable in the second course.
* It has been named by a celebrated gastronomer of past days, "Le diamant de la cuisine."
+ Varying from eight to sixteen shillings the pound at the best foreign warehouses. The truffles which are pared, bottled and steamed like fruit, are more expensive still ; but they can be kept after the season of the fresh ones is entirely past. English truffles — which are found in Hampshire (in the New Forest) — and in some few other of our counties, are very good, though seldom or ever equal in quality to those of France, Germany, and of different parts of Italy. The most esteemed of the French ones are from Perigord,
[chap. xvil.
TO PREPARE TRUFFLES FOR USE.
First soak them for an hour or two in fresh water, to loosen the earth which adheres to them ; then rinse them well from it, and with a hard brush scrub them until not a particle of the mould in which they have been embedded can be seen upon them. This part of the operation should be especially attended to, because the parings are as useful as the truffles themselves. It is often needful to leave them longer in the water after it has been changed ; and even to soak them sometimes in lukewarm water also : when they are perfectly cleaned, wipe them gently with a soft cloth, or fold them in to dry, should they be wanted for any preparation to which moisture would be injurious.
TRUFFLES A LA SERVIETTE.
Select the finest truffles for this dish, be particular in smelling them, and reject any that have a musty smell. Wash and brush them well with cold water only, change it several times, and when they are perfectly clean line a stewpan with slices of bacon ; put in the truffles with a bunch of parsley, green onions, and thyme, two or three bay- leaves, half a dozen cloves, and a little sweet basil ; pour in sufficient rich veal gravy to cover them, with the addition of from half a pint to half a bottle of champagne ; boil them very softly for an hour, then draw them aside and let them cool in the gravy Heat them afresh in it when they are wanted for table ; lift them out and drain them in a very clean cloth, and dish them neatly in a fine and beautifully white napkin, which will contrast as strongly as possible with the dark hue of the truffles.
TRUFFLES A l’iTALIENNE.
Records on this page
Truffles a la ServietteTruffles a l’Italienne