Modern cookery, in all its branches

Ohs. — We have seen the following manner of boiling a ham recommended, but we have not tried it : — “ Put into the water in which it is to be boiled, a quart of old cider and a pint of vinegar, a large bunch of sweet herbs, and a bay leaf. When it is two-thirds done, skin, cover it with raspings, and set it in an oven until it is done enough : it will prove incomparably superior to a ham boiled in the usual way.” TO GARNISH AND ORNAMENT HAMS IN VARIOUS WAYS. When a ham has been carefully and delicately boiled, the rind while it is still warm, may be carved in various fanciful shapes to decorate it ; and a portion of it left round the knuckle in a semicircular form of four or five inches deep, may at all times be easily scalloped at the edge or cut into points ( Vandykes ). This, while preserving a character of complete simplicity for the dish, will give it an air of neatness and finish at a slight cost of time and trouble. A paper frill should be placed round the bone. The Germans cut the ham-rind after it has been stripped from the joint, into small leaves and similar “ prettinesses,” * and arrange them in a garland, or other approved device, upon its surface. In Ireland and elsewhere, bread evenly sliced, and stamped out with cutters much smaller than a fourpenny-piece, then carefully fried or roloured in the oven, is used to form designs upon hams after they are glazed. Large dice of clear firm savoury jelly form their most appropriate garnish, because they are intended to he eaten with them. * This should be done mth a confectionary or paste cutter. S [chap. XIII. For tlie manner of making this, and glaze also see Chapter The ham shown in Plate V., which follows the directions for “ Carving,” is of very good appearance ; but in common English kitchens generally, even the degree of artistic skill required to form its decorations well, is not often to be met with. FRENCH RECEIPT FOR BOILING A HAM. Jfter having soaked, thoroughly cleaned, and trimmed the ham, put over it a little very sweet clean hay, and tie it up in a thin cloth ; place it in a ham kettle, a braising pan, or any other vessel as nearly of its size as can be, and cover it with two parts of cold water and one of light white wine (we think the reader will perhaps find cider a good substitute for this) ; add, when it boils and has been skimmed, four or five carrots, two or three onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs, and the smallest bit of garlic. Let the whole simmer gently from four to five hours, or longer should the ham be very large. When perfectly tender, lift it out, take off the rind, and sprinkle over it some fine crumbs, or some raspings of bread mixed with a little finely minced parsley. Ohs. — Foreign cooks generally leave hams, braised joints, and various other prepared meats intended to be served cold, to cool down partially in the liquor in which they are cooked ; and this renders them more succulent ; but for small frugal families the plan does not altogether answer, because the moisture of the surface (which would evaporate quickly if they were taken out quite hot) prevents their keeping well for any length of time. The same objection exists to serving hams laid upon, or closely garnished with savoury jelly (aspic), which becomes much more quickly unfit for table than the hams themselves.