Modern cookery, in all its branches

Obs. — “ Sour cream ” is an ingredient not much approved by English taste, but it enters largely into German cookery, and into that of Sweden, and of oilier northern countries also. About half a pound of cold beef cut into small thin shavings or collops, is often added to a herring-salad abroad : it may be either of simply roasted or boiled, or of salted and smoked meat. TARTAR SAUCE. (Sauce a la Tartar e). Add to the preceding remoulade , or to any other sauce of the same nature, a teaspoonful or more of made mustard, one of finely-minced shalots, one of parsley or tarragon, and one of capers or of pickled gherkins, with a rather high seasoning of cayenne, and some salt if needed. The tartar-mustard of the previous chapter, or good French mustard, is to be preferred to English for this sauce, which is usually [CHAP. VII] made very pungent, and for which any ingredients can be used to the taste which will serve to render it so. Tarragon vinegar, minced tarragon and eschalots, and plenty of oil, are used for it in France, in conjunction with the yolks of one or two eggs, and chopped capers, or gherkins, to which olives are sometimes added. SHRIMP CHATNEY. ( Mauritian Receipt.') Shell with care a quart of fresh shrimps (for the mode of doing this see Chapter III.), mince them quickly upon a dish with a large sharp knife, then turn them into a mortar and pound them to a perfectly smooth paste. Next, mix with them very gradually two or three spoonsful of salad oil of the best quality, some young green chilies chopped small (or when these cannot be procured, some good cayenne pepper as a substitute), some young onions finely minced, a little salt if required, and as much vinegar or strained lemon juice as will render the sauce pleasantly acid. Half a saltspoonful or more of powdered ginger is sometimes used in addition to the above ingredients. When they are preferred, two or three small shalots minced and well bruised with the shrimps may be substituted for the onions.* The proportion of oil should be double that of the vinegar used; but in this preparation, as in all others of the same nature, individual taste must regulate the proportion of the most powerful condiments which enter into its composition. All chatneys should be quite thick , almost of the consistence of mashed turnips, or stewed tomatas, or stiff bread sauce. They are served with curries ; and also with steaks, cutlets, cold meat, and fish. In the East the native cooks crush to a pulp upon a stone slab, and with a stone roller, the ingredients which we direct to be pounded. On occasion the fish might be merely minced. When beaten to a paste, they should be well separated with a fork as the chilies, &c., are added. CAPSICUM CHATNEY. Slice transversely and very thin, into a bowl or pan of spring water, some large tender green capsicumbs, and let them steep for an hour or two ; then drain, and dress with oil, vinegar, and salt. For Tomata and Sausage Chatney, see Chapter of Foreign Cookery. •The sauce can be made without either when their flavour is not liked. CHAPTER VIL OBSERVATIONS.