Modern cookery, in all its branches

The flesh of a fresh well-conditioned crab of moderate size is more tender and delicate than that of a lobster, and may be converted into an excellent fish sauce. Divide it into small flakes, and add it to some good melted butter, which has been flavoured as for either of the sauces above. A portion of the cream contained in the fish may first be smoothly mingled with the sauce. GOOD OYSTER SAUCE. At the moment they are wanted for use, open three dozen of fine plump native oysters; save carefully and strain their liquor, rinse them separately in it, put them into a very clean saucepan, strain the liquor again, and pour it to them ; heat them slowly, and keep them from one to two minutes at the simmering point, without allowing them to boil , as that will render them hard. Lift them out and beard them neatly ; add to the liquor three ounces of butter smoothly mixed with a large dessertspoonful of flour ; stir these without ceasing until they boil, and are perfectly mixed ; then add to them gradually a quarter of a pint, or rather more, of new milk, or of thin cream (or equal parts of both), and continue the stirring until the sauce boils again ; add a little salt, should it be needed, and a small quantity of cayenne in the finest powder ; put in the oysters, and keep the saucepan by the side of the fire until the whole is thoroughly hot and begins to simmer, then turn the sauce into a well-heated tureen, and send it immediately to table. Small plump oysters, 3 dozen ; butter, 3 oz. ; flour, 1 large dessertspoonful ; the oyster liquor ; milk or cream, full \ pint ; little salt and cayenne. COMMON OYSTER SAUCE. Prepare and plump two dozen of oysters as directed in the receipt above ; add their strained liquor to a quarter of a pint of thick melted butter made with milk, or with half milk and half water; stir the whole until it toils, put in the oysters, and when they are quite heated through send the sauce to table without delay. Some persons like a little cayenne and essence of anchovies added to it when it is served with fish ; others prefer the unmixed flavour of the oysters. Oysters, 2 dozens; their liquor; melted butter, i pint. (Little cayenne and 1 dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies when liked.) SHRIMP SAUCE. The fish for this sauce should be very fresh. Shell quickly one pint of shrimps and mix them with half a pint of melted butter, to which a few drops of essence of anchovies and a little mace and cayenne have been added. As soon as the shrimps are heated through, dish, and serve the sauce, which ought not to boil after they are put in. Many persons add a few spoonsful of rich cream to all shell-fish sauces. Shrimps, 1 pint ; melted butter, \ pint ; essence of anchovies, 1 teaspoonful ; mace, \ teaspoonful ; cayenne, very little. ANCHOVY SAUCE. To half a pint of good melted butter add three dessertspoonsful of essence of anchovies, a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace, and a rather high seasoning of cavenne ; or pound the flesh of two or three fine mellow anchovies very smooth, mix it with the boiling butter, simmer these for a minute or two, strain the sauce if needful, add the spices, give it a boil, and serve it. Melted butter, % pint ; essence of anchovies, 3 dessertspoonsful ; mace, i teaspoonful ; cayenne, to taste. Or, 3 large anchovies finely pounded, and the same proportions of butter and spice