Boil for about ten minutes, in half a pint of rich and highly- flavoured brown gravy, or Espagnole , half the rind of a Seville orange, pared as thin as possible, and a small strip of lemon-rind, with a bit of sugar the size of a hazel-nut. Strain it off, add to it a quarter pint of port or claret, the juice of half a lemon, and a table- spoonful of Seville orange-juice : season it with cayenne✪ Orange Gravy for Wild Fowl, and serve it as hot as possible. CHAP. IV.] GRAVIES. 103 Gravy, l pint ; ^ the rind of a Seville orange ; lemon-peel, 1 small strip; sugar, size of hazel-nut: 10 minutes. Juice of £ a lemon; Seville orange-juice, 1 tablespoonful; cayenne. See also Christopher North’s own sauce. MEAT JELLIES FOR PIES AND SAUCES. A very firm meat jelly is easily made by stewing slowly down equal parts of shin of beef, and knuckle or neck of veal, with a pint of cold water to each pound of meat ; but to give it flavour, some thick slices of lean unboiled ham should be added to it, two or three carrots, some spice, a bunch of parsley, one mild onion, or more, and a moderate quantity of salt ; or part of the meat may be omitted, and a calf’s head, or the scalp of one, very advantageously substituted for it, though the flavouring must then be heightened, because, though very gelatinous, these are in themselves exceedingly insipid to the taste. If rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear, and it will be difficult to render it so without clarifying it with the whites of eggs, which it ought never to require ; if very gently stewed, on the contrary, it will only need to be passed through a fine sieve, or cloth. The fat must be carefully removed, after it is quite cold. The shin of beef recommended for this and other receipts, should be from the middle of the leg of young heifer beef, not of that which is large and coarse. Middle of small shin of beef, 3 lbs. ; knuckle or neck of veal, 3 lbs. ; lean of ham, £ lb. ; water, 3 quarts ; carrots, 2 large, or 3 small; bunch of parsley ; 1 mild onion, stuck with 8 cloves ; 2 small bay- leaves ; 1 large blade of mace ; small saltspoonful of peppercorns ; salt, f oz. (more if needed) : 5 to 6 hours’ very gentle stewing. Ohs. — A finer jelly may be made by using a larger proportion of veal than of beef, and by adding clear beef or veal broth to it in- stead of water, in a small proportion at first, as directed in the receipt for consomme , see page 98, and by pouring in the remainder when the meat is heated through. The necks of poultry, any inferior joints of them omitted from a fricassee or other dish, or an old fowl, will further improve it much ; an eschalot or two may at choice be boiled down in it, instead of the onion, but the flavour should be scarcely perceptible. A CHEAPER MEAT JELLY. One calf’s foot, a pound and a half or two pounds of neck of veal or beef, a small onion, a carrot, a bunch of parsley✪ Meat Jelly, a little spice, a bit or two of quite lean ham, dressed or undressed, and five half pints of water, boiled very slowly for five or six hours will give a strong, though not a highly-flavoured jelly. More ham, any bones of unboiled meat, poultry, or game will, in this respect, improve it; and the liquor in which fowls or veal have been boiled for table should, when 104 MODERN COOKERY. [chap. IV. at hand, be used for it instead of water. These jellies keep much better and longer when no vegetables are stewed down in them.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Boil for about ten minutes, in half a pint of rich and highlyflavoured brown gravy, or Espagnole , half the rind of a Seville orange, pared as thin as possible, and a small strip of lemon-rind, with a bit of sugar the size of a hazel-nut. Strain it off, add to it a quarter pint of port or claret, the juice of half a lemon, and a tablespoonful of Seville orange-juice : season it with cayenne, and serve it as hot as possible. Gravy, l pint ; ^ the rind of a Seville orange ; lemon-peel, 1 small strip; sugar, size of hazel-nut: 10 minutes. Juice of £ a lemon; Seville orange-juice, 1 tablespoonful; cayenne. See also Christopher North’s own sauce. MEAT JELLIES FOR PIES AND SAUCES. A very firm meat jelly is easily made by stewing slowly down equal parts of shin of beef, and knuckle or neck of veal, with a pint of cold water to each pound of meat ; but to give it flavour, some thick slices of lean unboiled ham should be added to it, two or three carrots, some spice, a bunch of parsley, one mild onion, or more, and a moderate quantity of salt ; or part of the meat may be omitted, and a calf’s head, or the scalp of one, very advantageously substituted for it, though the flavouring must then be heightened, because, though very gelatinous, these are in themselves exceedingly insipid to the taste. If rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear, and it will be difficult to render it so without clarifying it with the whites of eggs, which it ought never to require ; if very gently stewed, on the contrary, it will only need to be passed through a fine sieve, or cloth. The fat must be carefully removed, after it is quite cold. The shin of beef recommended for this and other receipts, should be from the middle of the leg of young heifer beef, not of that which is large and coarse. Middle of small shin of beef, 3 lbs. ; knuckle or neck of veal, 3 lbs. ; lean of ham, £ lb. ; water, 3 quarts ; carrots, 2 large, or 3 small; bunch of parsley ; 1 mild onion, stuck with 8 cloves ; 2 small bayleaves ; 1 large blade of mace ; small saltspoonful of peppercorns ; salt, f oz. (more if needed) : 5 to 6 hours’ very gentle stewing. Ohs. — A finer jelly may be made by using a larger proportion of veal than of beef, and by adding clear beef or veal broth to it instead of water, in a small proportion at first, as directed in the receipt for consomme , see page 98, and by pouring in the remainder when the meat is heated through. The necks of poultry, any inferior joints of them omitted from a fricassee or other dish, or an old fowl, will further improve it much ; an eschalot or two may at choice be boiled down in it, instead of the onion, but the flavour should be scarcely perceptible. A CHEAPER MEAT JELLY. One calf’s foot, a pound and a half or two pounds of neck of veal or beef, a small onion, a carrot, a bunch of parsley, a little spice, a bit or two of quite lean ham, dressed or undressed, and five half pints of water, boiled very slowly for five or six hours will give a strong, though not a highly-flavoured jelly. More ham, any bones of unboiled meat, poultry, or game will, in this respect, improve it; and the liquor in which fowls or veal have been boiled for table should, when [chap. IV. at hand, be used for it instead of water. These jellies keep much better and longer when no vegetables are stewed down in them.

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