LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Classmark: C oo A JON 30106 008634932 I ^ A€ * Nv't i ~ * i ' 7 '■ A : *‘L- . • ••■;% f >' . . ■ % j.. :i * f ^y n. L;9 r~ C' T -. < ' ^ WI-IOLESOME COOKERY lolFJilt' . -o' ‘ ‘5>* . V t i , • V. I r “X ■ »' ' . V ■4? ^ ■fii WHOLESOME COOKERY EY MADAME MAEIE DE JONCOUET FIFTH EDITION LONDON KEGAN PAUL, TEENCH & CO., 1, PATEENOSTER SQUARE 1887 SZ (The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.) \ ) ! 1 1 1'> « n V ■' I LLlicS PREFACE. The following “ menus,” and the recipes contained in this book, have, with a few exceptions, been carried out in a small household, with one cook, and without the assistance of a kitchenmaid. They may seem elaborate at first to those young housekeepers who are ignorant of cooking, and who think that fresh rolls, ices, and a variety of made dishes, must always be had from a confectioner. My advice is this : “ Do not serve at your table dishes that cannot be made at home.” The so-called plain cooking which exists in many English houses is extravagant cooking. A “ plain cook ” does not know how to use up her small scraps of meat, fish, or vegetables ; she has little knowledge of soups or sauces, and has no notion that in throwing away a spoonful of gravy she is wasting the foundation of a good dish. A plain cook — I mean one who can roast and bake well — ought, with a few directions, to be able to make VI FEE FACE. almost any disLi described in this book. She must have patience and pei'severance. So must her mistress. Slie must attend to the smallest details ; she must take as much pride in serving up a plain dish of rissoles as the most elaborate made dish. If a dish be too salt^ or too hot with pepper, it is a disgrace to the cook to send it to table, as she could, by a little contrivance, have remedied the defect and saved annoyance to her mistress. I am not giving directions for preparing meat, fish, roasting, etc., in this book ; every mistress will provide her cook with a “ Mrs. Beeton ” or an “ Eliza Acton,” one of which no kitchen should be without. Where quantities are given in these recipes, those quantities must be carefully followed, as the success of a dish depends on the accuracy with which the directions are followed. The time for cooking certain dishes has intentionally not been given. A cook must understand her stove, and gradually calculate for herself the times required. The following dishes have been made on a close range in the winter, and on a Leoni’s gas-stove in the summer, and the time for cooking each dish has varied according to which stove was used. In stewing meats the cook must remember that they must simmer, and never boil. If they boil, the meat will be hard. The same with sauces or custards PREFACE. Vll in which there are yolks of eggs ; if they boil they will curdle. Again, with frying, the directions must be followed absolutely ; if they are not, the things fried will be hroivn, greasy, and indigestible. As the dishes come out from table, the cook must remove the remains of each dish, no matter how small, on to clean plates ; the remains of gravy into jars. The next morning the mistress should find everything in order in her larder ; she will at once see what remains, and give dh-ections how each article can be used.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Classmark: C oo A JON 30106 008634932 I ^ A€ * Nv't i ~ * i ' 7 '■ A : *‘L- . • ••■;% f >' . . ■ % j.. :i * f ^y n. L;9 r~ C' T -. < ' ^ lolFJilt' . -o' ‘ ‘5>* . V t i , • r “X ■ »' ' . ■4? ^ ■fii EY MADAME MAEIE DE JONCOUET FIFTH EDITION LONDON KEGAN PAUL, TEENCH & CO., 1, PATEENOSTER SQUARE SZ (The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.) \ ) ! 1 1 1'> « n V ■' I LLlicS The following “ menus,” and the recipes contained in this book, have, with a few exceptions, been carried out in a small household, with one cook, and without the assistance of a kitchenmaid. They may seem elaborate at first to those young housekeepers who are ignorant of cooking, and who think that fresh rolls, ices, and a variety of made dishes, must always be had from a confectioner. My advice is this : “ Do not serve at your table dishes that cannot be made at home.” The so-called plain cooking which exists in many English houses is extravagant cooking. A “ plain cook ” does not know how to use up her small scraps of meat, fish, or vegetables ; she has little knowledge of soups or sauces, and has no notion that in throwing away a spoonful of gravy she is wasting the foundation of a good dish. A plain cook — I mean one who can roast and bake well — ought, with a few directions, to be able to make [illustration: FEE FACE.] almost any disLi described in this book. She must have patience and pei'severance. So must her mistress. Slie must attend to the smallest details ; she must take as much pride in serving up a plain dish of rissoles as the most elaborate made dish. If a dish be too salt^ or too hot with pepper, it is a disgrace to the cook to send it to table, as she could, by a little contrivance, have remedied the defect and saved annoyance to her mistress. I am not giving directions for preparing meat, fish, roasting, etc., in this book ; every mistress will provide her cook with a “ Mrs. Beeton ” or an “ Eliza Acton,” one of which no kitchen should be without. Where quantities are given in these recipes, those quantities must be carefully followed, as the success of a dish depends on the accuracy with which the directions are followed. The time for cooking certain dishes has intentionally not been given. A cook must understand her stove, and gradually calculate for herself the times required. The following dishes have been made on a close range in the winter, and on a Leoni’s gas-stove in the summer, and the time for cooking each dish has varied according to which stove was used. In stewing meats the cook must remember that they must simmer, and never boil. If they boil, the meat will be hard. The same with sauces or custards in which there are yolks of eggs ; if they boil they will curdle. Again, with frying, the directions must be followed absolutely ; if they are not, the things fried will be brown, greasy, and indigestible. As the dishes come out from table, the cook must remove the remains of each dish, no matter how small, on to clean plates ; the remains of gravy into jars. The next morning the mistress should find everything in order in her larder ; she will at once see what remains, and give dh-ections how each article can be used.

Wholesome cookery