A handbook of fish cookery

An important point to bear in mind in this method of cookery is, to keep in the flavour, A slice of grilled salmon will taste far nicer if the slice has been wrapped in buttered paper ; but cooking anything in paper requires the greatest care, as should there be the least flare the paper will catch fire, — what is required is a fierce heat. When baking fish en papillot^ that is wrapped in buttered paper, the chief thing to bear in mind is not to spare the butter. This, one of the most delicate and delicious ways of cooking fish, is apt to be entirely spoilt, because only a little dab of butter is allowed. When fish has been cooked in paper it should be sent to table just as it is, paper and all. Always use plain white note paper, never printed. In boiling fish a very common fault is omitting to put sufficient salt into the water. In the case of large fish, salt should be added in the proportion of half a pound to a gallon of water ] for smaller fish, a proportion of a quarter-pound to the gallon is sufficient. It is now generally thought best to place fish in nearly boiling water, then allow it to come gently to the boiling point again, this keeps in the flavour on the same principle as the boiling of meat. The time allowed depends entirely on the size of the fish, but when the flesh shows signs of being just able to be separated from the bone, it is amply done. Experience is the only safe guide. To preserve the whiteness of white fish, it is wise to rub them over with lemonjuice before boiling. One method of boiling fish, when it is intended for eating cold, which is much approved of on the Continent, is to do it in court-bouillon," and if fresh-water fish be cooked this way iit is relieved of much of its insipidity. One part of vinegar, one part of red wine, to four parts of water, for the court-" To two quarts of the hquor put an ounce of salt, half an ounce of pepper, a bunch of savoury herbs, a sliced onion and a carrot. Sometimes a small piece of salt bacon is also added. Let these all boil together for some time, then strain the liquor and keep in a stone jar. It will keep a long time if occasionally re-boiled. The fish should be well covered with the liquid when laid in the fish-kettle, and allowed to boil gradually. To fry fish successfully it should be literally boiled in fat. This cannot be done over a slow or smoky fire, neither can it be done unless an abundance of fat be allowed. It is not an extravagant method, even if the pan be a large one, and it takes two or three pounds to fill it. If carefully poured into a basin containing boiling water after the fish has been cooked, the loose breadcrumbs and other particles will fall to the bottom, and the fat form a clear white crust. When due care is exercised there is no reason why the same fat should not be used fifty times over. Let it be quite boiling when the fish is put in. This may be known by its perfect stillness and the faint blue vapour which will rise from it. When the fish has been washed and carefully dried, flour it before dipping into beaten egg, and use brown raspings in preference to breadcrumbs. Lay a small piece of blotting-paper at the bottom of the dish to absorb all grease.