FoodNetArchive

The housewife's referee

1898

Page 54

Presented as published in 1898. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Kemove all the fat. All and every kind of meat will do for a stew. They may be used together or separately. The better the meat the better the stew." Braising is a species of stewing. In the process the meat is raised above its liquor and basted with, instead of being immersed in it, and the temperature above and below the stewpan is equal one to the other. A Brasiere or closed stewpan should be used, so that live embers can be held in the cover, and the heat necessary for cooking equalised above as well as below, and as there is no evaporation the meat imbibes the flavour of the vegetables, etc., with which it is cooked. The meat or birds to be cooked should be wrapped in slices of fat bacon or else larded with plenty of rich gravy to stew it in. When cooked it should be taken out and kept hot, the gravy strained and freed from fat entirely, then boil up quickly till very thick. To get the fat off quickly, plunge the basin which contains the gravy into cold water, and the fat will settle on the top. In broiling and grilling care should be taken to grease the bars of the gridiron before placing the meat or fish on it, and season with pepper and salt whilst broiling. The fire should be hot and clear, and the gridiron should be put down close to the fire at first, and gradually raised as cook- ing proceeds, so as to diminish the heat. The rapid heat required for broiling produces a greater degree of change in the affinities of raw meat than roasting, and generates a higher flavour, so that broiled meat is more savoury than roast. The surface becomes charred and a dark-coloured crust is formed, which retards the evaporation of the juices, and, if properly cooked, broils may be as tender as roasts, but it requires most minute attention. The fire must not be too fierce or the meat will be scorched and blackened; but it must be quick and clear, so that the meat may be properly browned, and also to prevent the gravy escaping, which it would do over a sluggish fire. Chops or steaks should be from half to three-quarters of an inch in thickness ; if they are thicker, the outside will be done before the inside can be properly cooked. The chop or steak should be constantly turned with the steak tongs ; a fork should never be stuck into it. The best way to tell PLAIN COOKING 81 whether a chop or steak is done or not is to press it with a spoon; if it feels spongy it is not cooked, but directly it ceases to feel spongy it is done. Mutton chops and rump steaks are generally liked rather underdone, but lamb and pork and every kind of fish should be most thoroughly done. A separate grill should always be kept for fish. Fish should be wrapped in oiled or well -buttered paper before being broiled.