FoodNetArchive

The housewife's referee

1898

Page 50

Presented as published in 1898. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
A neck of mutton can be divided so as to form several dishes — cutlets, Don Pedro pie, Irish stew, haricot mutton boiled mutton, curry, Scotch broth, mutton pies, etc. The scrag end makes a very good Irish stew, and it can be eaten boiled with caper sauce. A leg of mutton can be divided into three parts — the knuckle end for boiling ; the middle part which makes a capital steak; and the thick end which can be either roasted as it is, or what is better, boned, stuffed and rolled. The basis of all cookery consists of roasting, boiling, PLAIN COOKING 75 simmering, stewing, broiling, frying, and baking. We will consider now the means of performing these functions. Roasting is done either in front of the fire, or in the oven of a close range. For myself I prefer roasting in front of the fire with good basting, as I consider the flavour of roast meat is so much better, and besides, the gravy from meat cooked in the oven yields more grease. Meat roasted in the oven requires an immense amount of care; the oven should be very hot and twenty minutes to the pound of meat should be allowed. There should be a double dripping- pan with hot water placed in the lower compartment and the meat should be laid on a trivet. The wrong side should be placed upwards at first and the meat turned over when it is about half done. Place it on the hottest part of the oven for five minutes, so that the outside may harden to prevent the juices going into the gravy ; then it should be removed to the middle of the lower compartment, if fairly hot, and basted constantly. When the outside is browned, cover with greased paper, which must be removed just before serving and the joint frothed. In cooking poultry or game in a close range place them breast downwards in the pan itself, not on the trivet ; cover the breasts with dripping an inch thick, and place a large lump of it in their insides ; the birds will then go up to table juicy and tender. To roast with an open range, the first thing necessary is to have a good and clear fire, which should be kept up during the process ; but care must be taken in putting on fresh coals not to knock any into the dripping pan. Place the dripping pan (into which a little melted fat has been put to begin basting with) under the meat to catch the dripping. Hang the meat on the bottle jack, the biggest part downwards, and wind up the jack. The joint should be placed close to the fire at starting, and basted with hot fat ; in a quarter of an hour it should be drawn back a little, but the meat must be constantly basted ; for the more it is basted, the better it will be. The average time for cooking beef or mutton is a quarter of an hour for every pound of meat. The smaller the joint or bird, the quicker it should be roasted. Lamb requires twenty minutes for each pound, pork and veal half an hour. The colour of the joint must 76 THE housewife's EBFEKEE