A manual of home-making

The ability to trim a hat artistically is a gift. The placing of trimming should be practiced before a mirror and the general principies of dc^sign thus studied. Ideas may always be ob- tainetl from magazines. Pleasing color combinations in pic- tures and in nature are often the origin of good effects ini Fio. 114, — Hjmple deocmitiotui poaaiblc in »trtiw trimming. Flo. 116, — Simple use of ribbon to derontto or chanjcv a omwQ sUithtb'. Thr ribbon m^ b© held in plac© by a ba«ttiiK vtilch of wonrtod or silk thread id a cootrasting color. j hat^ and costumes* Examples of simple hats are shown in Plate XV, Trimming should always be sewed with as few stitches as possible in order to avoid a stiff appearance. Large pins can often l>e used to ^Ivantage. Milliners' glue may be used in- st/cad of stitches for holding the fabrics of trimmings in place. vet . I Buckles, Effective linckles can \w made by first cutting a shape^ buckram and c(>vering it with shirred ribbon, silk, or velv T'hi^ huckles nuiy l>o padded slightly with sheet wadding and wound with a lacquered braid. Two such buckles may be placed back to back, inclosing the edge of a plaited ribbon. MILLINERY 40$^ Lace straw. Lace straw may Ik* plaited and hcwckI to the edge of a .straip;ht strip for trimming {Fig, 114). The edge of lace straw may tx? drawn up to make a series of loops (Fig. 114). Ribbons, There is a wide range in the variety of ribbons. Vegetable silk ribbons are very natisfactory, because they hold their color better than do those made of real silk, and they keep their shai>e A L XJ Fio. 116.— Stitchea for folds» for sciwinj? down fftcinga, a oil for deouratioiK A, catch stitch; J9, lacing stitch' ^, Baddler'ti slitcli. better. They are woven as a heavy grosgi'ain ribbon or with long, overshot threads. The whole ci"own may bfe covered with horizontal rows of ribbon, or vertical rows may axtend from the tip of the crown to the brhii (Fig. 115). Folds. Folds made of velvet have many uses. They are more easily manipulated if made on the true bias than with the grain of the material For the simple milliner's fold (Fiiaj. 116), the velvet is cut twice the desired width of the finished fold. The raw edges are brought together and held with a saddler^s stitch or 406 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING a catch-stitch. The stitches should not be drawn so tight that they will show on the riRht side. The French fold (Fig, 117) is slightly more decorative than the milliner'8 fold. A strip b cut three times as wide as the finished width. One-third of the strip is folded up to the wrong Fio, 117. — Frenrh fold, used for decoration around crawns tuid brims mde. The other edp;e is folded in and brought down to meet first edge. The strip is then folded once more on the hne where the two edges meet. It is sewed in place with a slip-stiteh. Care must be taken not to pull the thread so close that a dent is made in the edge of the velvet. The fold must l>e kept even. A stitch taken through the fold will cause it to twist. MeawurcH for tlie length of folds are taken in the same way as for bindings, in order that the joining may be made first* Bows,