A manual of home-making

Ramie, a vegetable fiber of anticjuityi has until very re- cently been used ahiiost exchisively in China and Japan. A highly lustrous fiber, in this respect surpassing linen, and very white, its use has been limited by the difficulty with which the fiber is removed from the surrounding woody tissue. Ramie haa been used in combination witb silk and cotton, its luster making it hard to distinguish when woven with silk, and adding rich- ness when combined with cotton. Japanese and Chinese em- broideries on this material have lieen common in the markets for some years, but only recently has ramie linen, by the piece, been solti in this coimtry. As methods for producing the fiber are improved, more of it may Vjc expected to appear on the market, and the shortage of European linen due to the war may give an impetus to the importation of ramie from the Orient.f At present, ramie Is comliined with cotton or linen or used alone in making dress materials. JUTE Jute, another vegetable fil>er, is familiar in sacking, twine, and door-mats, but it is not expected in finer materials. The natural color of this fii>er is somewhat darker than linen color, it is harsh and coarse, yet it has considerable lustier. In burlap the fiber is used alone, while in monk's cloth it is combined with * Baker, Charlotte Gibbs. Seven Textile Fibers. Journal of Home Eponomii-s, S:3:144-l 17. t Journal of Home Economics, 8:3: 144-147. 1 326 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKIXO cotton in a hcai-^' materiaK In its natural color it adds a pleai*- ing tone in a more denim-like cotton and jute fabric, particu- larly when the cotton is in soft tones.* TESTS FOR FABRICS t A general comparison of fabrics may fx? made, but this will mean httle even to tlio expert, since each cla,s.s inchides so great a variety of fabrics which differ widely in appearance, feel, and strength. Feel The feel of many fabrics verj" closely resemble that of the raw fiber* Cotton materia!: Unrcsqxjnsive, soft, and inelaatic* Cotton bcM?AU9c of its inelasticity crushes ejisily. It may tx* made to took and feol somcw^hat like wool, but it always Tf tains its infiai*tie ehuractmstic. Wool material: Springy, harsh, and rliLHttc, The elasticity of wool is one of its most drsirahtc qualitifn*. If a woolen garment iMH'umes wrinkled, many of the ereiua^s fall out if the garment is merely hung away, Thia reaponsivenesa ia caused by ita elasticity. If wtxilen materia] ia combined with much cotton or shoddy in either spinning or weaving, it lo^es much of its elasticity. Silk material: Smooth, cool, and very ela.*?tie. If silk ia of go<Ki quality, it is the mo8t elastic materia!. For thi^ reason, Bilk Kurnjcnl^ hunjf away will look very smooth and fresh in a short time. Silk \o»ea this quality when adulterated with mercerised cotton or he^ivily weighted. Linen material: Firm, stiff, smtx>th, coldt very ttiflastic, and leathery if woven with a firm weave. The yctj iiielastie quahty of linen causes it to entsh readily and thus to require continual tinnssing. If adultca^ted with cotton, it loses somewhat its firmness and smoothness. Artificial silk material: Very smooth, wiry, and cold. Artificial silk tnAt«rift] is very unyielding. If combined with another fiber, it is much more aatiafactory. i^amie: Firm and stiff. It resembleis both linen and cotton. It does not crush quite so easily as linen. Strength.