It is economical to buy good worsted fabrics for the following
reasons: They are made from new, long, wool fibers and there-
fore make a strong fabric; they seldom contain shoddy; they
hold in place well when pressetl; they are finnly woven and are
not easily frayed; they will endure constant wear for more than
one season and, if cared for, will look well as long as they last*
Shoddy,*
As has been pointed out, the flemand for woolen good^s is so
much greater than the supply that it is necesjsary to resort to
various measures to increase the supply of cloth. One method
is to use the wckiI over and ovct again. Hags are Iwrnght up by
the rag-man, sold to the larger dealer, again to the "shoddy
manufactujvr, who clciuis them, Mirts them, tears thejn
pieces*, and use;* the be^st all-wool rags to produce tibers,
*OpU4 cii.
I
up iiy H
xldy" ■
mi to ■
which I
1
TEXTILES
are re-«pun and ai^ain wcjven, either separately, if of very goodf
quality, or mixed with new wool or cotton. Siirh a material
is waiTii, looks well for a time, and has its place, but must not
be bought for new wool or demand the price of good woolen
doth. This industry is enormous and shoddy is often found in
expensive novelty materials as well a,s in cheap ''all-wool'*
cloth. Because of the shortness of the filKTs, it may be detected
readil}^ when used alone, but in combination with good wool it
is more difficult to detect.
One class of shoddy consists of very short fibers, chppinga
from the mills, which are worked into the surface of a felted
cloth after it is woven. These short fibers after a time work out,
and are found in the bottoms of coats and inside the linings,
leaving the surface of the cloth threadbare,
Ckaraderutics and usea of some common woolen mukrials. H
Aibatrnss. — A material of plain weave* iind rather open tc.vtyre. On the
surface 18 a print eti or i[nprfsscd design giving a cr^pe effect. It is used
for dresses,
Alpnca. — ^A tbin fabric of close texture made from the fibers of an animal
of the llama six^cie^. Since this fil>er in hard to spin, it is gcneraUy combini?d
with a cotton or a pilk warp. It is used for linings and dresses*
AstrakkarL — A fal>ric with a ciirlj, wavy surface resembling astrakhan
fleece* It is used for dnws antl eoat trimming, sut*h a.s collar and muff sets,
Bedford Cfmf.^A fine woolen cloth with ril>8 of different widths running
with the length. It is often all*w<x)h but the raised ribs are sometimes
padded with cotton. It i;* used for dresses, M
Boiima cloth, — A close felted materiab very thick but Ught in weight. ^
The surface Is often w^avy. It is um'tl for suits and coats.
BrUlinfUin€.^X clotli ri'st'mbling mohair, generally a plain weave with
a cotton or silk warp. It has a hard wir>^ feeL It is used for dresses and
linings for hcfivy coats and suits.
Broadckith.^A soft, cU>sc'ly woven material with a satin finish. The
surface is napped in the finishing process and then pressed down. The
best qualities are cidled sjitiu broatlcloth. It is used for dress*3s and suits.
Bunting. — A plain^ even thread weave of mohair, wool, or worsted.
It 18 used for flags.
Caahmere. — Mad*' from the haip of the cashmere goat. The surface* is
twilled but rathrT unevf-n, since the yarn \s very difficult to spin. It i»
used for dR'Ssc^s and wraps.
Page 179
Presented as published in 1919. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
It is economical to buy good worsted fabrics for the following
reasons: They are made from new, long, wool fibers and there-
fore make a strong fabric; they seldom contain shoddy; they
hold in place well when pressetl; they are finnly woven and are
not easily frayed; they will endure constant wear for more than
one season and, if cared for, will look well as long as they last*
Shoddy,*
As has been pointed out, the flemand for woolen good^s is so
much greater than the supply that it is necesjsary to resort to
various measures to increase the supply of cloth. One method
is to use the wckiI over and ovct again. Hags are Iwrnght up by
the rag-man, sold to the larger dealer, again to the "shoddy
manufactujvr, who clciuis them, Mirts them, tears thejn
pieces*, and use;* the be^st all-wool rags to produce tibers,
*OpU4 cii.
I
up iiy H
xldy" ■
mi to ■
which I
1
TEXTILES
are re-«pun and ai^ain wcjven, either separately, if of very goodf
quality, or mixed with new wool or cotton. Siirh a material
is waiTii, looks well for a time, and has its place, but must not
be bought for new wool or demand the price of good woolen
doth. This industry is enormous and shoddy is often found in
expensive novelty materials as well a,s in cheap ''all-wool'*
cloth. Because of the shortness of the filKTs, it may be detected
readil}^ when used alone, but in combination with good wool it
is more difficult to detect.
One class of shoddy consists of very short fibers, chppinga
from the mills, which are worked into the surface of a felted
cloth after it is woven. These short fibers after a time work out,
and are found in the bottoms of coats and inside the linings,
leaving the surface of the cloth threadbare,
Ckaraderutics and usea of some common woolen mukrials. H
Aibatrnss. — A material of plain weave* iind rather open tc.vtyre. On the
surface 18 a print eti or i[nprfsscd design giving a cr^pe effect. It is used
for dresses,
Alpnca. — ^A tbin fabric of close texture made from the fibers of an animal
of the llama six^cie^. Since this fil>er in hard to spin, it is gcneraUy combini?d
with a cotton or a pilk warp. It is used for linings and dresses*
AstrakkarL — A fal>ric with a ciirlj, wavy surface resembling astrakhan
fleece* It is used for dnws antl eoat trimming, sut*h a.s collar and muff sets,
Bedford Cfmf.^A fine woolen cloth with ril>8 of different widths running
with the length. It is often all*w<x)h but the raised ribs are sometimes
padded with cotton. It i;* used for dresses, M
Boiima cloth, — A close felted materiab very thick but Ught in weight. ^
The surface Is often w^avy. It is um'tl for suits and coats.
BrUlinfUin€.^X clotli ri'st'mbling mohair, generally a plain weave with
a cotton or silk warp. It has a hard wir>^ feeL It is used for dresses and
linings for hcfivy coats and suits.
Broadckith.^A soft, cU>sc'ly woven material with a satin finish. The
surface is napped in the finishing process and then pressed down. The
best qualities are cidled sjitiu broatlcloth. It is used for dress*3s and suits.
Bunting. — A plain^ even thread weave of mohair, wool, or worsted.
It 18 used for flags.
Caahmere. — Mad*' from the haip of the cashmere goat. The surface* is
twilled but rathrT unevf-n, since the yarn \s very difficult to spin. It i»
used for dR'Ssc^s and wraps.